Moonshine by Melanie

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By PTR Team Members Melanie and Bill

Why go to Ireland?

1.  It is a fantastic place, filled with breathtaking landscapes.  It is remote and unspoiled.

2.  It is a travel bargain.  One can rent a well-appointed cottage for far less than other places in the world.

3.  Its people are friendly and accommodating.  There is nothing better than Irish hospitality.

4.  It is easy to get to.  Fly into Belfast or Dublin.  Rent a car.  Explore.

Where to visit?

Ulster and Donegal. Located on the North of the Emerald Isle.  Incredible natural setting, unspoiled, real, and peaceful.

Where to stay?

Best to rent a self-catering cottage or house.  Far less expensive than a hotel.  You then have the luxury of coming and going as you please, ready access to laundry facilites and room to spread out all camera gear, chargers, laptops etc.

What will it cost?

Self catering cottages of high caliber can be rented for about $1,000 per week.  Far less than one would pay for a hotel or a bed and breakfast.

Equipment

All photographs in this article were done with the Canon 1Ds Mark III and the Canon Powershot G10.

Things to know before you go.

The currency in the Republic of Ireland is the Euro with the exchange rate at the time of this visit making purchasing items in Donegal more expensive for UK visitors than usual. Petrol was a little less expensive but most food items, with alcohol in particular, far more costly.

Roads can be narrow and winding, take this into account when timing your arrival at a destination. Distances too can be more than you might expect.

Best Maps were the Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series, good for picking out details that might be of interest.

Be prepared for the weather and make sure you have the means to access a decent weather forecast. If you plan to spend much time at the coast tide times can be downloaded in advance for a small price. This is especially useful for planning ahead.

Equipment: Lenses covering the range from 16mm to 200mm were used. The range of contrast between sky and land necessitates the use of graduated filters, unless you are going to resort to post- processing to merge different exposures. We use Lee filters. A sturdy tripod will be well used, both for keeping images sharp in the low light levels but also for use with long exposures. Kitchen paper is invaluable for cleaning filters of sea spray!

So, the PTR Team set about to visit Ireland.

On September 26, 2009, PTR Team members Melanie and Bill journeyed to Ireland, actually two separate countries, Northern Ireland and The Republic of Ireland.  It was an opportunity for them to explore the Northern coast of the island, hoping to find elusive, good light  and  to meet photographers with whom they had corresponded for several months.

On their arrival they were met by Ross Mckelvey a barrister who practices law in Belfast, who is also a member of the Royal Photographic Society.  Ross was kind enough to show them the way along the beautiful and changing coastline from Larne to Bushmills.  He had previously contacted others in Ireland who love photography and invited them to join the team for a afternoon photographing the Giant’s Causeway.  Melanie and Bill met both Stephen Dickey and Cathal Donnelly, at Bushmills and late in the afternoon ventured to the Causeway, a landmark site for photographers worldwide.

The Giant’s Causeway by Bill

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Melanie:

Giant’s Causeway had a real pull for me, especially after reading Claire’s experience at this location. I knew that the conditions were going to be difficult, with strong winds and crashing waves. I found shooting towards the setting sun an impossible battle against the seaspray. The waves were unpredicatable. Ross was engulfed by one such wave, he did well to stand his ground and apart from a soaking both he and camera came away unscathed. Nor was I prepared for the number of people out there, despite the late hour. After waiting for some length of time for the light to fall right, a shadow appeared across my foreground with the owner holding out his own camera for me to take a picture of himself and his companion

Giant’s Causeway by Melanie

Later we hoped to meet Bill’s colleague Peter McCabe a fellow moderator at Nature Scapes and Andy McInroy, who just published a new book about photography in Ireland, and is famous for his cave photographs. Unfortunately both were busy with business matters.  Peter had been extremely helpful to us in planning the itinerary.

It is always a great joy to meet people with whom we have corresponded through the Internet.  Ross, Stephen, and Cathal were wonderful hosts. It was great to to be in the company of people so enthusiastic about their countries, and to discuss our mutual joy for photography.  Hopefully, in the coming weeks,  the photographers we have mentioned here will be writing articles to be published at PTR. It is our plan to feature Ireland in the near future and we would welcome articles from any photography enthusiasts who might have knowledge and experience to share of the countries.   To put it simply, Ireland is a dream location for travel and photography, offering bargain prices for self-catering cottages, and more importantly, endless places to explore with majestic and rugged coastlines, small villages, and incredibly warm and interesting people to meet.

From Bushmills we travelled to Cruit Island, on the western coast of Donegal.  We were optimistic, our journey west through the changing light was heartening. Unfortunately as the week progressed we became more and more despondent due to persistent low cloud and a lack of  ‘illumination’. Our accommodation for this week was pretty basic, but set in a dramatic location, perched on granite boulders looking down over a red sand beach.

Donegal Thatched Cottages, Cruit Island

Despite the weather, the area offered wonderful subjects.

Returning to the Sea by Bill

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St John’s Point by Melanie

Beauty and the Beast

Melanie:

After seeing images of  The Poisoned Glen, in particular those of Gary McParland the spot was a must to visit. Sadly, despite two visits the light was not playing. On the other hand a friendly collie dog was.

The Guide to The Glen, By Melanie

He/she found us out on our first visit leading us round the old church at Dunlewy after crawling in beneath the gate. On our second trip he took the lead down the glen, doubling back when he saw us with our cameras poised, then sitting patiently and waiting. I spotted a collection of interesting stones and bless his heart, he posed in the middle, taking in the view.

The Lord Of The Ring, by Melanie

He may have been a little more than disgruntled when we got back to the car when all I had to give him was a couple of McVities Mini Cheese Cheddars! He made the day, unlike the day before when we encountered the Beast of Cruit Island – - – -

Bill:

While at Cruit Island, despite a windy and wet day, our team grew tired of sitting in the cottages awaiting a turn in the weather, so we set out for a long walk from the Thatched Cottages to the end of the island.  Along the way we met a pony and Melanie could not resist the opportunity to pet the animal.  BIG MISTAKE!

Melanie and The Beast of Cruit Island

Long story, short version.  The Pony bites.  Yep, it bites hard.  And it follows you, and keeps following you, and it keeps biting.  To think, Melanie has done photography of lions, leopards, and other wild animals all over the world, and this was the first time she had been attacked by an animal, and a Pony of all things!

It must of been the red jacket she was wearing.  Obviously, to the pony the jacket was a big apple.

True to form, the light changed the day we left Cruit Island. It was blowing up a storm, making it impossible to stand up without the shelter of a wall and making an image was but a dream. The conditions abated some for the journey east towards the Fanad Peninsula  where the light greeted us with fantastic opportunities for photography.

Melanie Considers the Morning Light by Bill

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Arrival by Melanie

The rugged coastline of Ireland is simply breath taking. What a joy it was to find this place just a short walk from our holiday house at Doagh Beg to our private beach.

The Gateway by Bill

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Perhaps our favorite place, while visiting Ireland was at Fanad Head. Long story, short version: to get to the spot where these photographs were made, one must walk along a wall on a footpath that is about two feet wide. Simple, except for the fact that the two foot wide walkway drops off about 50 feet into a water filled crevasse. In other words, if you are like us, it is best not to look down.

Fanad Head Lighthouse at Moon Rise by Bill

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Melanie:

Bill loves to exaggerate. It was a bit freaky on the fist trip we had to the lighthouse as the wind was gusting up to 60mph. It made for exhilarating conditions with the waves crashing high onto the cliffs and the wind whipping up the sea foam. How magical it was when, in amongst the noise and drama of the wind and waves, a full moon rose serenely out of the cloud to turn the evening  into something extraordinary.

Moonshine by Melanie

The conditions and the beauty we experienced on the Fanad Peninsula more than made up for the disappointment of the previous week. There was more than enough to keep a person and a camera occupied for a week just in this small area alone. Endless permutations of light and tides meant there was something different to find as each hour passed.

Rainbow by Melanie

It was with more than a little regret that we left Doaghbeg and the Fanad Peninsula, but we had just a little more to see before we were to leave Ireland. We retraced our steps back to the north Antrim Coast, this time staying in Portrush. Here again we were drawn to the sea, how hard it is not to be in a place of  such incredible, wild beauty. This time we avoided Giant’s Causeway and had a very enjoyable morning at Ballintoy and two evenings down on the beach at White Park Bay.

Having experienced just a small sample of what Ireland has to offer it will be difficult  not to return. It was a wonderful trip, I can still feel the force of the wind, smell the sea and if I close my eyes the light plays again before me.

Ballintoy by Melanie

To see a slideshow of images, click on the image below.

Accommodation

The Bushmills Inn

An outstanding hotel with a wonderful pub and restaurant.  Superb, luxurious rooms with attention to detail and amenities.  Staff were at all times both helpful and discrete.

PTR Rating:  Five Stars

The Best Western Magherabuoy

A good hotel with inviting rooms.  An agreeable  pub and restaurant.  Staff were all helpful. Room information needed a little updating.

PTR Rating:  Four Stars

Donegal Thatched Cottages

Set in a remote location on Cruit Island, the cottages form a cluster of several individual cottages.  The rooms are small with the exception of the main living area. Furnishings while authentic were basic. Bathrooms were on the main floor and only accessible through the kitchen.  One was tiny, so small it was hardly usable.  Both bathrooms were dirty, with mildew growing throughout.  Kitchen was tiny and not well equipped.  Owners charge for electricity over and above cost for the cottage (added to which was that even when set the timer for the central heating would not switch off at the set time).  Peat fires are nice but one has to pay for peat used.  Cost was high considering what is offered.  Had it been summer and you were with a young family it might have suited well.

PTR Rating:  Two Stars (not recommended)

An Teach Illanmore

Imagine a modern well-equipped and meticulously well maintained house sitting above your own private beach!

The house is large with well appointed furniture.  Splendid views of the coastline are available from the master bedroom, dining/kitchen, and living area on the first floor.  There are three bedrooms upstairs with outstanding views.

Bathrooms are spacious, well appointed, clean and modern.

The kitchen is a delight. All equipment was in good working order with clear instructions for the user.  Any possible kitchen implements can be found in the well appointed galley.  Dishes, cups, silver ware, wine glasses, were all there together with coffee cups and coffee awaiting our arrival.

It is a short walk from the house to the beach below.  The area is very private with magnificent views of the bay.

The price included everything.  No extra charges for fuel or electricity.

PTR Rating:  Five Stars.  Actually Six Stars.  This house is highly recommended by Photo Travel Review.

By Claire

Why Go?

I discovered this region a few years ago and have visited twice, once in February for a purely photographic tour and again in the summer with family. If you like Scotland you’ll love this region. It is compact but diverse. You have mountain views, a beautiful and varied coastline, loughs and rivers, bogs and of course an Irish welcome. They say it is one of the last unspoilt areas in Ireland and you can indeed find solitude.

About this Location:

You’ll find the Twelve Bens mountain range that dominates most views, the unique Bog Road landscape outside Roundstone and both white and golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean.

Add to this Killary Harbour; Ireland’s only fjord, that is 16 kilometres long and gives new views at every turn.

Connemara has “that” light photographers seek , constantly changing the mood  of the landscape. You really can chase the light as the Twelve Bens impacts dramatically on the weather and creates impressive shifts as the clouds rise and fall.

My Trip

Lets start at Roundstone.

The village of Roundstone lies on the western arm of Bertraghboy bay in Connemara, Co. Galway, 48 miles (77km) north-west of Galway city. The village is beautifully set on one of the most spectacular coastal drives in Europe overlooking the Atlantic at the foot of Errisbeg Mountain.

A detour to Dogs Bay is recommended. Just 2 miles from Roundstone this bay faces due west. It is famous for its Foraminiferal Sands which are made of millions of microscopic shells. It is a stunning beach with its bright white sands and crystal blue water.

Back through Roundstone and a short drive takes you to the River Ballynahinch.

Connemara Ponies are world famous.

Come back towards Roundstone and turn off along the Bog Road. It is this stretch of road that will draw me back again and again. The 12 Bens form the back drop, there are hundreds of pools set amongst peaty bogs (please take care – as my brother will confirm they eat people).

Explore around Letterfrack, take the back roads and explores Ballinakill harbour and the Renvyle Penninsular.

Detour and find Gowaun’s blood stone at sunset.

Head on and find The Green Road along Killary Fjord, leading towards Leenaun which is at the head of the fjord. It stretches for approximately nine kilometres and was part of the famine relief program during the 19th century. It is easy walking with stunning views. Killary Harbour extends ten miles inland and with the mountains rising steeply on either side provides what is probably the best scenery in Ireland.

Stop at The beautiful village of Leenaun, snugly situated at the head of Killary Harbour. This is often aptly described as the ‘Gateway to Connemara’.

Take a cruise along the Killary Harbour.

Look out for this Caravan on the way to Aasgarth Falls.

Highlights of my trips:

The Bog Road and the sunset from Leenaun.

Lowlights:

Midges in the summer. Failing to get good light at Aasgarth Falls despite trying several times – in fact I’ve never seen a great photo taken from here, the light just never seems to hit it right.

When to Go:
Spring time is special in Connemara. There is a real sense of rebirth and being the emerald isle the new greens and spring flowers can ignite the scene. The weather is unpredictable but like Western Scotland the fact it rarely sits still for long  is a bonus for photographers.
Summer is busier, but not as busy as some Irish locations. The weather is equally as unpredictable but good light harder to find as it arrives so early or late in the day and the middle of the day rarely excites.

A little further south in The Burren even in summer there are expanses of pretty wild flowers.

Access:

All locations mentioned here are easily accessible by car and very little effort.

How to Get There:
This site shows you all airports, use my Google map to find those closest. Car hire is easy to arrange and you can find good deals on the net. Ferries from mainland UK take you to  the east of Ireland but distances throughout Ireland are relatively small. I live in England and by choice have visited here by flying to Shannon or Galway and hiring a car as I hate losing time in my chosen location by sailing and driving (the ferries have strange sailing times that mean you either have to be at the outward ports early or late and the drive is long enough once in Ireland to make the journey a bit long without losing good light at the start and end of your tour – if you have more than a week this isn’t a problem and you do get to see more of the country.)

Where to Stay:

If you’ve read my other reviews you’ll know I shun hotels and whilst B&B are OK for a one night stay I’d always recommend self-catering whether this is a cottage, caravan or touring van.

Try here

Advice for travellers:
In spring be prepared for any weather – cold or hot and most certainly some rain. It is a wet place be it coming from above or below but that is what makes its special for a photographer. Take your best waterproof and stay out as long as you can just waiting for the next weather system to arrive.

The second the sun hits the land the midges come out to annoy you. The Bog Road is in the middle of a huge bog (surprisingly!) - home to lots of different blood sucking monsters. Keep repellent in your car and check it works.

Those bogs are deceptive. When the weather has been dry you feel like you are walking on a bouncy castle but that top crust can break and if you get swamped it covers you in black foul smelling goo.

Equipment for this trip:

I used my standard landscape gear. Canon 5D on the second trip and 10D on the first, my old but favourite Canon 17-35mm. A macro for the details on the beach.

Tripod, Lee ND grads and polariser. There is so much water a polariser is a must. Good backpack. Wellies. Waterproofs.

Research:

Google maps – the sat view is useful. OS maps.

When The Light is Good:

If you nothing else drive the Bog Road and walk a bit (carefully avoiding getting sucked in) and wait for the setting sun by one of the hundreds of pools with the Connemara turning red in the distance.
Travel the Green Road.

Look for the blood red rocks at Gowaun.

You don’t have to work hard to get a view of the Twelve Bens as they dominate the area but look for still water to reflect them in.

When the Light is Bad:

Traditional music, singing and dancing can be discovered throughout the area.
If its history your after, you have come to the right place, around 5000 years to be discovered. Find megalithic stones, tombs, stone and earth forts, early Christian churches, castles, both ruined and inhabited and the landing place of Alcock and Brown.

Visit Kylemore Abbey.

In the evening enjoy lovely warm turf fires and eat great seafood.

Shoot shells on beaches.

Will I Go Again?

Yes. Already planning the next trip.

Recommended links:

Irelandscape The Best Pictures of Ireland on the Internet!
Connemara Tourism
Letterfrack to Kylemore

UK insurance for your trip recommended by PTR:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

Recommended Reading:

Listening to the Wind

The Last Pool of Darkness

Connemara (Superwalker) (Map)

DVD

Destination Ireland

Bill used a slow shutter speed to capture the movement of a wave through a gateway. Thanks to Team Member Melanie M for teaching Bill how to do it.

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