Why Go?

If you love mountains, enjoy hiking and want to be able to stay in unforgettable mountain huts with scenes every landscape photographer dreams of just outside your door; this is for you.

About this Location:

The High Tatra are situated on the border between Slovakia and Poland. The majority of the peaks and valleys lie in Slovakia but out of the main ridge lead valleys and terraces where many mountain lakes (tarns) can be found. The three biggest are located within the Polish High Tatra and it is these lakes that make this a photographer’s wonderland.

The Tatra Mountains National Park is one of the largest parks in Poland and the most unique. Together with the Slovak Tatra Mountain National Park it forms a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. 11.5 thousand hectares of the park area is strictly protected. The rest of the park is accessible to tourists – walking, climbing, caving and winter sports are allowed. There are 250 km of mountain trails and routes varying in the level of difficulty but many are walking tracks.

The most characteristic plants of the Tatra Mountains are Swiss stone-pine and edelweiss. The animals most often associated with these mountains are: alpine marmot, bear and chamois (the only European species of antelope). I saw a chamois and bear spore and this in a restaurant ! (photo by Kaz).

Our Itinerary:

After a day in Krakow, worth a visit in itself, we headed for Zakopane and a beautiful wooden house that we used as a base. This popular skiing resort is just 2 hours drive from Krakow.

The second day took us along the Morskie Oko Valley and lake and its more elevated twin, the Czarny Staw Lake. Either walk or take a horse drawn carriage. The lake is the largest and fourth deepest in the Tatra Mountains. In the past, Morskie Oko was called “Rybie Jezioro” (“Fish Lake”) due to its natural stock of fish, which are uncommon in Tatra lakes and these were clearly visible in the clear, still water.

Czarny Staw pod Rysami is a mountain lake on the Polish side of Mount Rysy in the Tatra mountains. At 1,583 m above sea level, it overlooks the lake of Morskie Oko. A walking path circumnavigates the lake  and I’d certainly recommend taking this detour.

Two days and a night in the Gasienicowa Valley. An easy enough walk led us to the mountain hut. After a good meal we headed out to the lakes and valleys.  As the sun started to dip we got some good light, so much so we arrived back too late for supper!

Five Lakes Valley. Another two days and a night in the mountains with a walk that was a little more testing. It was worth it. The trail leads off from the track to Morskie Oko (use the horse and carriage and ask to be dropped off). We encountered a lot more snow and I’d recommend spending two nights here to really explore.

Highlights of my trip:

Waking at dawn, walking a few yards and being in the high alpine mountains and then watching the light arrive.

Lowlights:

The heatwave in Krakow in May on arrival – not really a lowlight but totally unexpected as I’d travelled expecting spring and got summer.

When to Go:

The lower level trails are open all year unless an avalanche alert is made.

In April thousands of tiny crocuses bloom on the Tatra clearings.

May is when spring arrives.

The high level trails had only just fully opened when we were there at the end of May, there was still quite a lot of snow in the high mountains and one trail demanded a bit of careful negotiation over snow and a head for heights (I just closed my eyes).

In June Zakopane gets quiet, the days are long and mostly sunny.

July and August can be very crowded as can weekend in the skiing season.

September is a very good month for hiking trips, the days are still long enough, the weather usually good, there are no more holiday crowds. October might both be very sunny and chilly and sees the first snowfalls in the mountains.

How to Get There:

Fly to Krakow – many budget flights from UK

Zakopane is easily accessible from Krakow. An easy 2 hour drive. Good bus and train services (the bus is more frequent and quicker). Taxis are relatively cheap.

Where we stayed:   (Note 10 Zloty = about £2.30.)

Zakopane: Book well in advance for major holidays and weekends. Our trip was in May half term and there was plenty of accommodation available. I’d happily turn up here without booking at this time of year if I just wanted a room.

There are 8 mountain hostels. We stayed in the two below and visited the one at the Morskie Oko Valley. They are delightful wooden buildings, warm and welcoming with food available and bedding to hire.

The Gasienicowa Valley Mountain Hostel You can book online. Prices about 35 Zloty. Food available.

Arrivals: 8:00 am – 8:00 pm.

The only way to reach the shelter is by foot. The route through Kasprowy requires the least effort, but the most popular trail is the one that leads through Bozcan. In winter, when there is not much snow, both trails are open for hikers. When avalanches threaten, hikers use the route from Brzeziny. Hania has used this route many times in winter.

Five Lakes Valley (Dolina Pieciu Stawow) mountain hostel.

Located at 1672 m on the edge of the Przedni Staw Lake, near Siklawa (the biggest waterfall in Poland).
30  Zloty in a room for 4. There are 68 beds. Food available. Only accessible by foot with a bit of a hard pull at the end.

This is like a British hostel so you may end up sharing with strangers but it was very quiet when we were there. Bedding is available to hire. Even if rooms are full you won’t be turned away but offered a space on the floor! Food is available.

Incredible value, a beautiful building and you can’t beat the location.

Advice for travelers:

Use the trails, visit the hostels.

Once in the mountains ensure you follow all sensible procedures and have the right gear for all conditions, the trails are very well marked but the weather unpredictable. If you hike in the Tatra Mountains, you may experience all four seasons in one day from Summer to Winter.  You need a reasonable level of fitness to get yourself, your kit for an overnight stay and your camera gear up to the huts. The Morskie Oko Valley hut however can be visted using the horse and carriages and the walk around the lake is easy. The down side is that it is a lot more crowded.

The whole of the Polish Tatras are a National Park and you have to keep to the trails.

This is a great trip if you are on a budget. Those used to hostelling will be very pleasantly surprised by the accommodation and knocked out by the locations.

No dogs allowed within the national park.

Equipment for this trip:

Tripod.

A good back pack that will take camera gear, water, rations and extra clothing for the nights in huts. I used my lowepro mini treker but only took my wide angle lens, Canon 5D, plenty of memory, 3 batteries and Lee ND grads on the overnight trips.

A microfibre towel was invaluable.

You can buy water bottle holders to loop onto your bag our belt and these save space in your backpack.

Research:

I was fortunate that my dear Polish friend Hania had organised this trip. One of the pleasures of photography is finding friends from all over the world and sharing your passions. I had met Hania and her cousin Kaz in Skye and they were kind enough to host this holiday. They have extensive knowledge of the Tatra Mountains so I had very little research to do, maybe I should have checked the temperature in Krakow before I’d left though!

When The Light is good:

Get up early enough to find yourself amongst the mountains and look for water for reflections. Predict where the early and late light will catch the peaks.

When the Light is Bad:

Walk the trails, shoot waterfalls and flowers.

Will I Go Again?

Yes. Without question.

UK insurance for your trip recommended by PTR:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

Recommended links:

For guided tours. Bag Outdoor Agency.
Summit Post for information about huts, weather, guide books and maps.
Hiking – epswalks.
Mountain shelters

Tatra Horizontal Radiance by Claire Carter

by Claire Carter and Hania Franek

Claire: A few years ago I was lucky enough to meet up, on the Isle of Skye, with some people who had driven all the way from Poland to join us on a photo shoot. Following this we have all met several times in different locations and have become good friends.

Hania Franek, who lives in Gliwice, invited me to join her this summer on a two week trip to Poland and Slovakia. Hania has a real love of the mountains, especially her beloved Tatras.

Hania: After some discussion we decided to head to two destinations, the Pieniny Mountains in Southern Poland and the Slovakian part of Tatra Mountains.

The Pieniny, which I had discovered during previous summer holidays with my daughter, remained in my memory as one of the most beautiful places in Poland. This small mountain chain is only 35 km long and 4 – 5 km wide. Its northern slopes are relatively gentle. From the other side, where the Dunajec River flows, slopes are very steep and the limestone faces are up to 300 metres high. From the highest peaks there is a beautiful panorama. The mountain meadows are full of flowers. The old castles in Nidzica and Czorsztyn, located on the shore of the lake (Jezioro Czorsztynskie) and morning mists give the place a special charm.

Jezioro Czorsztynskie by Hania Franek

The Tatra Mountains, the highest mountains in this part of Europe, have an alpine character. The High Tatra Mountains are marked by sharp peaks, narrow ridges and numerous valleys with lakes, streams and waterfalls. The Northern part of the range is situated in Poland, while the southern and bigger are in Slovakia.

I fell in love with Tatras when I was a teenager and have come back to them during my whole life.

Beloved Mountains by Hania Franek

Claire : We had had a very successful trip in the Polish Tatra (reviewed here) a few years ago and I was very interested to see the Pieniny region. Hania found us a lovely wooden lodge to stay in just by the shores of the lake (Jezioro Czorsztynskie). This is in fact a reservoir created by the construction of the Niedzica dam that was completed in 1997. Interestingly the reservoir was filled by water in record time due to a spectacular flood that would in fact have devastated the villages below the dam had it not been built.

The whole region proved to be very picturesque with lots of interest for the photographer.

Mirror lake by Claire Carter

I have never been especially inspired before by summer photography, preferring autumn and winter but the area around the lake had a surprise in store. Due to the creation of the reservoir it has developed an unusual microclimate and every morning we woke before dawn and for several hours watched mists come and go.

Dew Capture by Claire Carter

This took us a little by surprise and the first morning, which was especially misty, we were engulfed in a thick fog and despite seeking higher ground did not see the sun until it was high and hot. For the rest of the week however the mornings proved to be most productive and by starting on higher ground and then working our way down to the lakeshore to get a view of the castle we were kept well and truly busy. The biggest challenge was keeping lenses free from condensation.

Dawn Chorus of Colour by Claire Carter

We also witnessed a fabulous storm at sunset.

Sunset Storm over Polish Tatra by Claire Carter

It is worth mentioning that the flora of the Pieniny has a unique character, some endemic species exist only in this part of the world. Small pine trees called limba have a unique shape (a relict from an early postglacial epoch) and have often been the subject of photographs.

Field Flowers Poland by Claire Carter

Also the world of animals is very rich here but large mammals, like brown bears or wolves are only seen occasionally. However, a big deer almost ran into me when I was taking pictures in a middle of a meadow!

Claire : We discovered a ridge just behind our lodge that gave an impressive panorama of the Polish Tatras on one side and a view over the lake the other, a lovely place to while away some time.

Pieniny Mists by Claire Carter

For those looking for a more relaxing tour I’d recommend a raft trip through the Dunajec River Gorge. It is a spectacular stretch of river meandering for some 10 km between 300-metre-tall limestone rocks and forms a border between Poland and Slovakia. First, you can see Polish and Slovak villages on both sides of the river and later you can admire an impressive gorge that narrows to the 12-metre-wide funnel at its narrowest point.

Rafting by Hania Franek

Hania took this picture of a seagull while on the raft trip - far from the sea, but they have discovered this region since the reservoir was opened. This was Hania’s first attempt at bird photography and I think she was done a great job.

New Home by Hania Franek

I found great delight in seeing storks. For Hania it is a common sight but for me it was a  discovery.

Room for 2 by Claire Carter

Hania: The National Park situated in the central Pieniny range is worth recommending for a trekking tour and as a base for escapades into the region of Podhale (Tatra Foothills situated in the north of the Tatra Mountains).

The blue tourist trial leads to the highest part of a belt of limestone rocks famous for a spectacular rock formation. It is about 5h 30min long but gives the possibility of climbing to the top of Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) and Sokolica – the best viewpoints in the area, and to reach Zamkowa Góra (the Castle Mountain) with the ruin of the castle from thirteenth century. We chose another variant of the way. We started with the yellow trail from Kroscienko Town that climbs up to the junction with the blue trail that leads to the Trzy Korony.

The inhabitants of Podhale – The Highlanders, are very independent mountain farmers, known for their folk traditions and keeping the local culture alive. The wooden architecture makes an important element of that culture. That is why we decided to visit Chocholow - the most complete survival of an old Highlanders’ village from the nineteenth century.

The village is based around one main street. The walls of wooden houses are built from large logs that are washed before each Easter. Beautiful ornaments and richness of flowers in little gardens make this place unforgettable.

Church Reflected in Chocholow by Claire Carter

Claire: It was with some sadness we left the mists of Pieniny and started out on the second leg of our journey, heading across the border into Slovakia but Hania had a treat in store for us.

Hania : In the south-western edge of the Slovak Paradise Mountains there is one of the largest ice cave in Europe. This unique karstic phenomenon, named Dobsinska Ice Cave, contains 110 thousand cubic metres of ice in places thicker than 25 metres. Ice survives in the cave thanks to its unique formation and the temperature never increases above zero.

Thanks to electric lighting we could admire the surprising beauty of this underground world with its ice waterfalls, ice stalagmites and columns.

When we came back to the real world, the temperature of the hot summer day was 30 degrees higher!

Ice cave by Claire Carter

Claire: After a day in Poprad  we headed for the town of Strbske Pleso which sits at around 1350 m

This is the highest settlement in Vysoke Tatry, formed around the second largest lake on the Slovak side of the High Tatras (with mountains reaching 2600 m.)

As the mountains have a national park status there will never be any settlements higher in this region. Strbske Pleso is therefore, and will always be, the unique starting place for hikes into the most beautiful mountains of Eastern Europe.

It is a well-known skiing centre and since it hosted the 1970 World Championship, a range of world-class skiing events have been held here, including ski-jumping and cross-country events.

Strbske Pleso, when the tourists head home by Claire Carter

It is ideally placed along the Electric Railway (a two minute walk from our accommodation) that runs through the Tatra Mountains and we made good use of this facility. The journey itself takes you through spectacular scenery and whilst the storms of 2004 devastated the forests it has opened up the views along the route.

This disaster is worth mentioning as any visitor cannot but help wonder what it must have been like when the winds hit (reaching speeds of almost 200 km/h) and the landscape today is shaped by this event. The fallen timber has been salvage to minimize insect infestation and a broad zone along the southern flank of the Tatras is now open; fireweed has established quickly and during August this was a prominent feature.

We spent a day walking to the Popradske pleso (tarn) and the Symbolic Cemetery.

On the return journey we were treated to a lovely rainbow.

Mountain Trek by Hania Franek

The accommodation we stayed in was superb and ideal for photographers who have to be out at dawn  and need the opportunity to cook for themselves. Breakfast was also provided if needed and at a time that was perfect for us as we returned from the morning shift. It is worth mentioning that main meals in Poland and Slovakia are eaten at lunchtime and there are many nice places to eat – a great way to use up time when the sun is too high to take photographs.

Claire: This adventure was all the better because it placed us in locations not well documented by photographers. We had to find our own way and this made the trip so much better. Rather than finding views that were already documented we had to use our own judgement to decide where the light would fall and the images are more about a moment than a place. This makes the place special even if it is not always recognisable.

Misty Filter by Claire Carter

Hania: We wander in pursuit of light and each journey helps us to understand better what we seek. During this trip I discovered how light sculpts and draws colour from darkness. I have been very lucky to travel in the company with a much more experienced photographer!

Fireweed and Tatra by Hania Franek

Claire:  And I have been lucky to be in the company of someone who has  such knowledge and love  of this region. To all who have read this far I can say that travel is a wondrous thing but if you can find someone willing to share local knowledge you are truly blessed.