Guest Article, Neil Burton, The Puffin Run

The Puffin Run

By Neil Burton
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Getting up close and personal with nature does not always mean travelling to far flung places such as the Galapagos Islands. In fact my most recent trip, to the easily accessible Farne Islands, is proof that natural spectacles can be seen closer to home.

The Farne Islands lie a couple of miles from the Northumberland coast. Up to 30,000 pairs of puffins nest here among the grass and rocks every year, sharing the space with various terns, guillemots, razorbills, shags, kittiwakes and seals. It is an impressive sight and one which is best viewed on a full day tour of the islands.

For the three breeding months boats travel to both Staple and Inner Farne islands, allowing a landing of around two hours per island. Unfortunately Staple Island is only accessible on calm days due to the position of the dock, on my recent visit we were unable to land here. This however meant that our charter took us around the island and then gave us three hours to explore Inner Farne.

Three hours. Doesn't sound much but is, in fact, more than ample time to fill a few memory cards with darting terns, speed of light flying puffins and, slightly easier, puffins on the ground. As you first dock on Inner Farne you are greeted by a cacophony of angry terns, which will attack your head and ears at the beginning of the season, and immediately opportunities for 'the shot' present themselves.

After paying the National Trust landing fee of 5.60 you are free to wander, carefully avoiding baby terns on the board walk, and sticking to the marked paths. The island is overflowing with life and in no time you will be surrounded by puffins as they fly in to land with beaks full of sand eels.

If you want to test your in flight bird skills this is the place, but be warned, trying to capture a puffin in flight is addictive and you can soon spend three hours rooted to the spot. During my visit I tried to split my three hours into terns, puffins flying and puffins on the ground (with the occasional break for other close up birds).

I found the best tactic is to stay in one spot and wait for the birds to pass you by. Both the terns and puffins will avoid you as they head out or in, but only just. When trying to capture puffins on the ground I advise a very low position, actually laying down at times, as the puffins will be less inclined to run further off. In fact laying on the board walk with your camera resting on a bag or tripod will often see puffins move in closer, just a matter of waiting.

Equipment

A long lens is a must, a minimum of 300mm but no more than 500mm is necessary if you are willing to wait. At times I spotted puffins running through the tripod legs of other photographers while they stood with their 500mm lenses.

When cruising around the islands a longer lens is useful as the boats do not get too close and, boats are often fully booked, you could find yourself at the wrong side unable to move. I found the 100-400 L more than long enough and versatile in a tight enclosed space.

For in-flight shots a minimum speed of 1200/sec is generally the rule (thanks for the tip Bill) and since light can sometimes be less than kind a faster lens will be advantageous. A camera with strong autofocus is also advisable as my 5D often refused to even try and focus on a flying puffin, even with an f4 lens attached.

But don't limit yourself to the long lenses, at certain points nesting birds can be approached and taken with a macro or wide angle lens. The all purpose 24-105 was very useful for shots of nesting shags with chicks and wider shots of the island.

Charters

There are a few boat companies based at the harbour in Seahouses, some offer landing others just cruises around the islands. My pick of the companies, based on recommendations and the number of people queueing at the ticket shed, is Billy Shiels (http://www.farne-islands.com). They offer the full day trip when both islands are accessible but will cruise around Staple and then allow three hours on Inner Farne if not.

I advise anyone to book in advance, contact details on the site, as the tickets soon sell out. The price when I visited was ₤25, plus the National Trust landing fee of ₤5.60 on both islands.

Other places of interest

Bamburgh, five minutes drive from Seahouses, offers impressive sunrises over the castle and long beaches with rock pools.

Newton. Tiny village of a few houses and a brewery/pub. The long beach offers great landscape opportunities and the home brew is a fresh change from the standard beers.

Beadnell Bay. Walking from either Beadnell or Newton (from each towards the other) you will, during the breeding season, reach a National Trust tern colony. Yet another opportunity to fill your memory cards with flying, diving and resting tern shots. If you are lucky you may also get kestrels, peregrine falcons or stoats, who prey upon the young birds.

Where to stay

For me Seahouses was the obvious choice as all the Farne boats leave from here. I stayed at the Beach House Hotel which is situated five minutes walk from the harbour and offers a decent breakfast and sea views. Both Bamburgh and Beadnell also offer a full range of accommodation, but remember to include the ₤4 daily parking fee in Seahouses.