Scotland, The Hebrides, The Isle of Skye

 The Misty Isle - Eilean a' Cheo (South Skye)

 By Melanie

Why Go?

Of the Hebridean Islands, Skye is perhaps the most accessible.  Here you will find  wild and rugged landscapes, with a wide range of places to stay, plenty for your family to do and easy visiting to some of the highlights of the mainland.
 

For the purposes of this review I've confined myself to the southern half of the island, the north I will talk about in a second review.
 

When to go?

I will always recommend out of peak season for any photographic trip in Scotland, accommodation is less costly and it is again the autumn and winter months that will make the most of the landscape. If it is wildlife you want to see you may have to brave the summer and the threat of the carnivorous midge.

How to get there?

For visitors from the UK, I would again recommend driving. For those from outside the UK the closest airports are again Inverness and Glasgow where car hire is available, though you may want to book this in advance. The advantage of arriving in Glasgow is that you get to drive through Glencoe, though if you don't mind a detour, you can always visit from the Inverness route.

The most popular way to get to Skye is over the Skye Bridge  (map) now toll free. This way you get to experience the splendour of Glen Shiel, Loch Duich, and pass most photographed castle in Scotland, Eilean Donan.

The second most popular route is 'The Road to the Isles' Taking the road to Mallaig from Fort William, passing Glenfinnan and its monument (map) with the railway viaduct made more popular now by the Harry Potter film, The Chamber of Secrets as Hogwart's Express steams its way over en route to the Academy of Witchcraft and Wizardry. You will also pass the silver sands of Arisaig and Morar, with Camuasdarach Beach (used in filming of Local Hero and Highlander)

For those interested in a more lengthy detour take the Corran Ferry, between Ballachulish and Fort William. Then drive through Glen Tarbert taking in the magnificence of the mountains and keeping an eye out for the herds of red deer. You will no doubt find detours along this extended route to Mallaig, but perhaps most worthwhile visiting is Castle Tioram, again a 'big Screen' location this time in Highlander III and Rob Roy.

The above two routes will terminate at Mallaig, the harbour here is worth a look in itself. From Mallaig take the Calmac   ferry across to Armadale.

There is one final 'road route' which is a little gem in itself. Take a left at Shiel Bridge from the A82 and drive to Glenelg, there take the little 6 car ferry across to Kylerhea, following the channel that once cattle were made to swim across to get to market on the mainland.

What to photograph ?

If you've managed to arrive on the island and not been distracted en route you will find a wealth of photographic opportunities:
 
the magnificence of the Black Cuillin against the streams and waterfalls of Sligachan and Glen Brittle

the mountains from the beach at Ashaig,

on a still day reflections in Loch Ainort and Loch Slapin,

the peaceful little loch of Cill Chriosd with its graveyard and ruined  church,

the Sleat peninsula with the beautiful lighthouse at Isle Ornsay, the bay at Tarskavaig the ruins of Dunscaith Castle between Tarskavaig and Ord, and finally ending up to catch the sunset at Ord itself.

Talisker Bay is well worth a sunset visit if you've been to Glen Brittle, especially at low tide when you can catch reflections of the sky, sea stack and waterfall in the wet sand.

The rocky shore at Camas Malag ( take a left to Kilmarie on the road between Broadford and Torrin).

Finally there is Elgol almost deserving of a review in its own right. I will only say that the best time is sunset, though you may be surprised at some of the early morning light you can catch, especially if you site yourself a little higher than the beach. You can download a screensaver for Windows of Elgol from here.

I hesitate to reveal more locations as a lot of the fun is in finding your own special spots.

Approximate locations for the above spots can be found here.
 

Personal Highlights

The days of calm winds when reflections are perfect, the days of changeable winter weather when the light reveals itself at its most magnificent, and the days when you find one little scene that you did not see before.
 

Personal lowlights

Driving to the north of the island, in search of the images in my mind and encountering conditions quite different from those I'd left (barely being able to open the car door for the strength of the wind being just one).

Encountering boot-sucking sands at Isle Ornsay and nearly losing a welly.

Car vandalism on the Skye Bridge.

What to take?

Camera, memory/film, storage. Long, wide-angle, and macro lenses. Tripod, filters (especially ND grads for the landscapes, and polariser to capture underwater detail.

An umberella, to protect the lens from light showers, or something closer fitting such as a shower cap from heavier rain/hail etc.

Camera backpack

Warm and waterproof clothing and sturdy footwear , wellies included.

OS maps:

Skye South

Guide books:

Short Walks on Skye  lots of close to the road stuff to be found here

Walks on the Isle of Skye  a delightful book, one of a series covering areas the author loves

The Isle of Skye: A walkers Guide   you will support my local community if you buy this one

Where to stay?

I have always stayed in self catering accommodation, it gives you the freedom to go out when you want, come back when you want and the chance of a nap in the day.  Will often end up cheaper, especially if there are a few of you and you save money on eating out.

Places I've had experience of and can  recommend are:

Winkle Hall   at Kyleakin, so close to the bridge and easy access to the mainland and spots you will want to visit on the island.

Eilean Ban    Once a home to Gavin Maxwell and you get a lighthouse on your doorstep. (it was here I encountered car vandalism, since had the advice to park at the Skye end of the bridge on Saturday night).

The Old Church   Beautifully appointed with a number of bathrooms to match the number of bedrooms and space for all to enjoy. A wonderful setting a well suited to a small group of photographers.

Struanlea    Small, compact, studio type accommodation. Basic, but with wi-fi access.

Marble Hollow   Bunkhouse-style accommodation, clean, well equipped and very suitable for a group.  Very obliging owners.

Fossil Cottage   Right on the shore, so you don't have to leave your doorstep to see how the light is, and only 10 paces to get a picture! Wi-fi access.

The Otter's Place   A magnificent setting and with all the comforts you need.

Half of Two  Design at its best.

When the light is good

Get out, stay out and keep looking.

When the light is bad

Explore and look for detail.

Head to the west, the light has an uncanny habit of popping through at the last moment.

Park down by a lochside and watch for wildlife, you may see an otter!

Look at your maps and guidebooks and get planning.

Stuff for the Family

A  Bella Jane  boat trip to Loch Coruisk.

The Serpentarium at Broadford. 

Head over to the mainland  and the village of Plockton.

Take the ferry  from Kylerhea to Genelg , go look at Bernera Barracks, the Glenelg Brochs and take a walk down to the shore at Sandaig, where Gavin Maxwell made his home and the inspiration for Camusfearna and Ring of Bright Water.
 

Will I go again?

Yes, yes, yes - though I have a hankering to spend more time on the outer Hebrides, Skye is that little bit closer for a week's visit.

See Melanie, Claire & Bill for more images from Scotland.

UK Insurance. PTR recommendations:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.