You are hereIreland : Loop the Connemara's Twelve Bens
Ireland : Loop the Connemara's Twelve Bens
By Claire
Why Go?
I discovered this region a few years ago and have visited twice, once in February for a purely photographic tour and again in the summer with family. If you like Scotland you'll love this region. It is compact but diverse. You have mountain views, a beautiful and varied coastline, loughs and rivers, bogs and of course an Irish welcome. They say it is one of the last unspoilt areas in Ireland and you can indeed find solitude.
About this Location:
You'll find the Twelve Bens mountain range that dominates most views, the unique Bog Road landscape outside Roundstone and both white and golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean.
Add to this Killary Harbour; Ireland's only fjord, that is 16 kilometres long and gives new views at every turn.
Connemara has "that" light photographers seek , constantly changing the mood of the landscape. You really can chase the light as the Twelve Bens impacts dramatically on the weather and creates impressive shifts as the clouds rise and fall.
My Trip
Lets start at Roundstone.
The village of Roundstone lies on the western arm of Bertraghboy bay in Connemara, Co. Galway, 48 miles (77km) north-west of Galway city. The village is beautifully set on one of the most spectacular coastal drives in Europe overlooking the Atlantic at the foot of Errisbeg Mountain.
A detour to Dogs Bay is recommended. Just 2 miles from Roundstone this bay faces due west. It is famous for its Foraminiferal Sands which are made of millions of microscopic shells. It is a stunning beach with its bright white sands and crystal blue water.
Back through Roundstone and a short drive takes you to the River Ballynahinch.
Connemara Ponies are world famous.
Come back towards Roundstone and turn off along the Bog Road. It is this stretch of road that will draw me back again and again. The 12 Bens form the back drop, there are hundreds of pools set amongst peaty bogs (please take care - as my brother will confirm they eat people).
Explore around Letterfrack, take the back roads and explores Ballinakill harbour and the Renvyle Penninsular.
Detour and find Gowaun's blood stone at sunset.
Head on and find The Green Road along Killary Fjord, leading towards Leenaun which is at the head of the fjord. It stretches for approximately nine kilometres and was part of the famine relief program during the 19th century. It is easy walking with stunning views. Killary Harbour extends ten miles inland and with the mountains rising steeply on either side provides what is probably the best scenery in Ireland.
Stop at The beautiful village of Leenaun, snugly situated at the head of Killary Harbour. This is often aptly described as the 'Gateway to Connemara'.
Take a cruise along the Killary Harbour.
Look out for this Caravan on the way to Aasgarth Falls.
Highlights of my trips:
The Bog Road and the sunset from Leenaun.
Lowlights:
Midges in the summer. Failing to get good light at Aasgarth Falls despite trying several times - in fact I've never seen a great photo taken from here, the light just never seems to hit it right.
When to Go:
Spring time is special in Connemara. There is a real sense of rebirth and being the emerald isle the new greens and spring flowers can ignite the scene. The weather is unpredictable but like Western Scotland the fact it rarely sits still for long is a bonus for photographers.
Summer is busier, but not as busy as some Irish locations. The weather is equally as unpredictable but good light harder to find as it arrives so early or late in the day and the middle of the day rarely excites.
A little further south in The Burren even in summer there are expanses of pretty wild flowers.
Access:
All locations mentioned here are easily accessible by car and very little effort.
How to Get There:
This site shows you all airports, use my Google map to find those closest. Car hire is easy to arrange and you can find good deals on the net. Ferries from mainland UK take you to the east of Ireland but distances throughout Ireland are relatively small. I live in England and by choice have visited here by flying to Shannon or Galway and hiring a car as I hate losing time in my chosen location by sailing and driving (the ferries have strange sailing times that mean you either have to be at the outward ports early or late and the drive is long enough once in Ireland to make the journey a bit long without losing good light at the start and end of your tour - if you have more than a week this isn't a problem and you do get to see more of the country.)
Where to Stay:
If you've read my other reviews you'll know I shun hotels and whilst B&B are OK for a one night stay I'd always recommend self-catering whether this is a cottage, caravan or touring van.
Try here
Advice for travellers:
In spring be prepared for any weather - cold or hot and most certainly some rain. It is a wet place be it coming from above or below but that is what makes its special for a photographer. Take your best waterproof and stay out as long as you can just waiting for the next weather system to arrive.
The second the sun hits the land the midges come out to annoy you. The Bog Road is in the middle of a huge bog (surprisingly!) - home to lots of different blood sucking monsters. Keep repellent in your car and check it works.
Those bogs are deceptive. When the weather has been dry you feel like you are walking on a bouncy castle but that top crust can break and if you get swamped it covers you in black foul smelling goo.
Equipment for this trip:
I used my standard landscape gear. Canon 5D on the second trip and 10D on the first, my old but favourite Canon 17-35mm. A macro for the details on the beach. Tripod, Lee ND grads and polariser. There is so much water a polariser is a must. Good backpack. Wellies. Waterproofs.
Research:
Google maps - the sat view is useful. OS maps.
When The Light is Good:
If you nothing else drive the Bog Road and walk a bit (carefully avoiding getting sucked in) and wait for the setting sun by one of the hundreds of pools with the Connemara turning red in the distance.
Travel the Green Road.
Look for the blood red rocks at Gowaun.
You don't have to work hard to get a view of the Twelve Bens as they dominate the area but look for still water to reflect them in.
When the Light is Bad:
Traditional music, singing and dancing can be discovered throughout the area.
If its history your after, you have come to the right place, around 5000 years to be discovered. Find megalithic stones, tombs, stone and earth forts, early Christian churches, castles, both ruined and inhabited and the landing place of Alcock and Brown.
Visit Kylemore Abbey.
In the evening enjoy lovely warm turf fires and eat great seafood.
Shoot shells on beaches.
Will I Go Again?
Yes. Already planning the next trip.
Recommended links:
Irelandscape The Best Pictures of Ireland on the Internet!
Connemara Tourism
Letterfrack to Kylemore
UK insurance for your trip recommended by PTR:
Travel insurance and camera insurance.
Recommended Reading:
DVD
