Poland and Slovakia – In Summer

Tatra Horizontal Radiance by Claire Carter

by Claire Carter and Hania Franek

Claire: A few years ago I was lucky enough to meet up, on the Isle of Skye, with some people who had driven all the way from Poland to join us on a photo shoot. Following this we have all met several times in different locations and have become good friends.

Hania Franek, who lives in Gliwice, invited me to join her this summer on a two week trip to Poland and Slovakia. Hania has a real love of the mountains, especially her beloved Tatras.

Hania: After some discussion we decided to head to two destinations, the Pieniny Mountains in Southern Poland and the Slovakian part of Tatra Mountains.

The Pieniny, which I had discovered during previous summer holidays with my daughter, remained in my memory as one of the most beautiful places in Poland. This small mountain chain is only 35 km long and 4 – 5 km wide. Its northern slopes are relatively gentle. From the other side, where the Dunajec River flows, slopes are very steep and the limestone faces are up to 300 metres high. From the highest peaks there is a beautiful panorama. The mountain meadows are full of flowers. The old castles in Nidzica and Czorsztyn, located on the shore of the lake (Jezioro Czorsztynskie) and morning mists give the place a special charm.

Jezioro Czorsztynskie by Hania Franek

The Tatra Mountains, the highest mountains in this part of Europe, have an alpine character. The High Tatra Mountains are marked by sharp peaks, narrow ridges and numerous valleys with lakes, streams and waterfalls. The Northern part of the range is situated in Poland, while the southern and bigger are in Slovakia.

I fell in love with Tatras when I was a teenager and have come back to them during my whole life.

Beloved Mountains by Hania Franek

Claire : We had had a very successful trip in the Polish Tatra (reviewed here) a few years ago and I was very interested to see the Pieniny region. Hania found us a lovely wooden lodge to stay in just by the shores of the lake (Jezioro Czorsztynskie). This is in fact a reservoir created by the construction of the Niedzica dam that was completed in 1997. Interestingly the reservoir was filled by water in record time due to a spectacular flood that would in fact have devastated the villages below the dam had it not been built.

The whole region proved to be very picturesque with lots of interest for the photographer.

Mirror lake by Claire Carter

I have never been especially inspired before by summer photography, preferring autumn and winter but the area around the lake had a surprise in store. Due to the creation of the reservoir it has developed an unusual microclimate and every morning we woke before dawn and for several hours watched mists come and go.

Dew Capture by Claire Carter

This took us a little by surprise and the first morning, which was especially misty, we were engulfed in a thick fog and despite seeking higher ground did not see the sun until it was high and hot. For the rest of the week however the mornings proved to be most productive and by starting on higher ground and then working our way down to the lakeshore to get a view of the castle we were kept well and truly busy. The biggest challenge was keeping lenses free from condensation.

Dawn Chorus of Colour by Claire Carter

We also witnessed a fabulous storm at sunset.

Sunset Storm over Polish Tatra by Claire Carter

It is worth mentioning that the flora of the Pieniny has a unique character, some endemic species exist only in this part of the world. Small pine trees called limba have a unique shape (a relict from an early postglacial epoch) and have often been the subject of photographs.

Field Flowers Poland by Claire Carter

Also the world of animals is very rich here but large mammals, like brown bears or wolves are only seen occasionally. However, a big deer almost ran into me when I was taking pictures in a middle of a meadow!

Claire : We discovered a ridge just behind our lodge that gave an impressive panorama of the Polish Tatras on one side and a view over the lake the other, a lovely place to while away some time.

Pieniny Mists by Claire Carter

For those looking for a more relaxing tour I’d recommend a raft trip through the Dunajec River Gorge. It is a spectacular stretch of river meandering for some 10 km between 300-metre-tall limestone rocks and forms a border between Poland and Slovakia. First, you can see Polish and Slovak villages on both sides of the river and later you can admire an impressive gorge that narrows to the 12-metre-wide funnel at its narrowest point.

Rafting by Hania Franek

Hania took this picture of a seagull while on the raft trip - far from the sea, but they have discovered this region since the reservoir was opened. This was Hania’s first attempt at bird photography and I think she was done a great job.

New Home by Hania Franek

I found great delight in seeing storks. For Hania it is a common sight but for me it was a  discovery.

Room for 2 by Claire Carter

Hania: The National Park situated in the central Pieniny range is worth recommending for a trekking tour and as a base for escapades into the region of Podhale (Tatra Foothills situated in the north of the Tatra Mountains).

The blue tourist trial leads to the highest part of a belt of limestone rocks famous for a spectacular rock formation. It is about 5h 30min long but gives the possibility of climbing to the top of Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) and Sokolica – the best viewpoints in the area, and to reach Zamkowa Góra (the Castle Mountain) with the ruin of the castle from thirteenth century. We chose another variant of the way. We started with the yellow trail from Kroscienko Town that climbs up to the junction with the blue trail that leads to the Trzy Korony.

The inhabitants of Podhale – The Highlanders, are very independent mountain farmers, known for their folk traditions and keeping the local culture alive. The wooden architecture makes an important element of that culture. That is why we decided to visit Chocholow - the most complete survival of an old Highlanders’ village from the nineteenth century.

The village is based around one main street. The walls of wooden houses are built from large logs that are washed before each Easter. Beautiful ornaments and richness of flowers in little gardens make this place unforgettable.

Church Reflected in Chocholow by Claire Carter

Claire: It was with some sadness we left the mists of Pieniny and started out on the second leg of our journey, heading across the border into Slovakia but Hania had a treat in store for us.

Hania : In the south-western edge of the Slovak Paradise Mountains there is one of the largest ice cave in Europe. This unique karstic phenomenon, named Dobsinska Ice Cave, contains 110 thousand cubic metres of ice in places thicker than 25 metres. Ice survives in the cave thanks to its unique formation and the temperature never increases above zero.

Thanks to electric lighting we could admire the surprising beauty of this underground world with its ice waterfalls, ice stalagmites and columns.

When we came back to the real world, the temperature of the hot summer day was 30 degrees higher!

Ice cave by Claire Carter

Claire: After a day in Poprad  we headed for the town of Strbske Pleso which sits at around 1350 m

This is the highest settlement in Vysoke Tatry, formed around the second largest lake on the Slovak side of the High Tatras (with mountains reaching 2600 m.)

As the mountains have a national park status there will never be any settlements higher in this region. Strbske Pleso is therefore, and will always be, the unique starting place for hikes into the most beautiful mountains of Eastern Europe.

It is a well-known skiing centre and since it hosted the 1970 World Championship, a range of world-class skiing events have been held here, including ski-jumping and cross-country events.

Strbske Pleso, when the tourists head home by Claire Carter

It is ideally placed along the Electric Railway (a two minute walk from our accommodation) that runs through the Tatra Mountains and we made good use of this facility. The journey itself takes you through spectacular scenery and whilst the storms of 2004 devastated the forests it has opened up the views along the route.

This disaster is worth mentioning as any visitor cannot but help wonder what it must have been like when the winds hit (reaching speeds of almost 200 km/h) and the landscape today is shaped by this event. The fallen timber has been salvage to minimize insect infestation and a broad zone along the southern flank of the Tatras is now open; fireweed has established quickly and during August this was a prominent feature.

We spent a day walking to the Popradske pleso (tarn) and the Symbolic Cemetery.

On the return journey we were treated to a lovely rainbow.

Mountain Trek by Hania Franek

The accommodation we stayed in was superb and ideal for photographers who have to be out at dawn  and need the opportunity to cook for themselves. Breakfast was also provided if needed and at a time that was perfect for us as we returned from the morning shift. It is worth mentioning that main meals in Poland and Slovakia are eaten at lunchtime and there are many nice places to eat – a great way to use up time when the sun is too high to take photographs.

Claire: This adventure was all the better because it placed us in locations not well documented by photographers. We had to find our own way and this made the trip so much better. Rather than finding views that were already documented we had to use our own judgement to decide where the light would fall and the images are more about a moment than a place. This makes the place special even if it is not always recognisable.

Misty Filter by Claire Carter

Hania: We wander in pursuit of light and each journey helps us to understand better what we seek. During this trip I discovered how light sculpts and draws colour from darkness. I have been very lucky to travel in the company with a much more experienced photographer!

Fireweed and Tatra by Hania Franek

Claire:  And I have been lucky to be in the company of someone who has  such knowledge and love  of this region. To all who have read this far I can say that travel is a wondrous thing but if you can find someone willing to share local knowledge you are truly blessed.