A PTR Review:

By Bill

Name of Tour Provider: Emerald Air Service

Location: Homer Alaska

Cost: $500 per person for a one-day trip

I must be honest, when I booked my flight out of Homer, Alaska, to Hallo Bay with Emerald Air Service, I was concerned.  After all, the idea of walking with brown bears on open ground with no weapon and no vehicle was scary.  But then, I was misinformed as I later learned from my guide, Chris Day (one can see a photo of her here), whose experience over many years of walking with brown bears is unmatched. The morning of my trip, I arrived at the headquarters of Emerald Air Service a tad worried.  Yep, I’m a wimp. But, soon thereafter, Chris did an extraordinary briefing during which I learned that walking with brown bears is safe and an extraordinary experience because the bears, while sometimes curious about humans, prefer to just go about their lives while humans observe them.  Further, Chris pointed out that the brown bears we would see have never been hunted, thus they have nothing to fear from humans.  Her words of reassurance sorta helped me out as I put on hip boots that would be necessary for the trek at Hallo Bay.  I kept remembering a video of some guy photographing a brown bear as another guy stood by with a high-powered rifle, implying that photographing brown bears is dangerous and only done by people who have courage.  What bunk! As the trip progressed, I actually sat down on the grasses of the bay’s shore and watched two young bears bask in the sun about 30 feet from where I sat.  My fears were misplaced and unnecessary. It was an extraordinary experience that I shall never forget. Just me and open space and brown bears close by.  I was probably safer there than sitting in a park in my home town.

Ken day, husband of Chris, was the pilot of our float-plane, a wonderful old Otter

that Ken meticulously maintains.  Ken invited me to sit in the co-pilot’s seat for our flight.  How extraordinary it was as we left Homer and the Kenai Peninsula seeing the Aleutian Range and volcanic peaks, some of which are active.  What an wonderful flight it was.  Especially the landing on the bay which was soft and smooth.

Ken anchored the float-plane in the bay and we waded ashore (now I know why I was wearing hip-boots!).

It wasn’t long before I saw my first brown bear.  “Skiddish” is her name, given to her by Chris, because the young bear is aloof and prefers to be alone.

What an extraordinary place Hallo Bay is.  I don’t think I have been anywhere as beautiful.  Untouched by the presence of humankind, except for footprints in the shore line, it was simply breathtaking.

As our group began our trek across the landscape, we joked with one another about our fears, yep, we still were not satisfied that this idea of walking around with nothing to protect us was a good idea.  But, that concern soon went away as we got closer and closer to the bears.

How powerful they are!  The largest I observed weighed around 1,000 pounds, but Chris told me that they get much larger!  I was struck by the wonderful rich colors of their fur and their cool way of “cowboy walking.”

As the morning progressed, we walked along the shore, sometimes wading across small streams, and then stopping close by two three-year-old siblings who were enjoying the day.  And here I got a wonderful photograph that I call “Bear Feet.”

Later, we sat down and ate our lunch, careful to pack up anything left over, as Chris pointed out that we do not want human food or human products to remain there, as such affects the behavior of the bears and the environment.

One interesting thing Chris did for us, was to be adult about needing a restroom.  Well, there aren’t any restrooms at Hallo Bay, there is nothing there!  Her solution was simple.  The females formed a group, the males formed a group, we separated a good distance apart, each group formed a circle with each person looking out, each of us did our thing and then we reformed into a single group.  Imagine that, privacy in the middle of nowhere.

As the day progressed the winds picked up, so much so that I had difficulty getting sharp photographs, despite the intense sunlight of the near-artic area.  The winds affected our ability to fly out and soon Chris was prodding us to move back to the shore to board the Otter.  I hated to leave.  Really.  I was perfectly at peace, full of joy at the experience, and I wanted to stay there, pitch a tent, and live with the bears for a good while.  But, it was time to go.

I can’t say enough positive things about Chris and Ken Day and Emerald Air Service.  What Chris and Ken offer is a fabulous opportunity for photography and travel that is both unusual and extremely rewarding as a personal experience.

Professionalism, courtesy, concern for safety, knowledge of the subject matter, and commitment to the environment, all describe Emerald Air Service.  By all means, if you have the opportunity, take this extraordinary trip, off the beaten path, and become one with brown bears.

By Bill

Located in northwestern Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park preserves a spectacular landscape rich with majestic mountains, pristine lakes and extraordinary wildlife.

The jagged Teton Range offers the photographer wonderous opportunities for landscapes as the valley to the South of the range is nearly flat, offering contrasts between sage covered fields and escarpments like none other in the United States.

The American Bison can be found wandering the open range along with Elk, Moose, Pronghorn (the American Antelope), and a variety of birds that soar near the magnificient range.  Lakes form near the base of the Teton Range and offer wonderful opportunities for photography.

Why Go?

Travel in the United States is a bargain, particularly for European tourists, as the exchange rate for currency favors the Euro or the British Pound considerably.  As well, the area is largely remote, allowing one to enjoy the splendid natural setting free of intrusion by others.

This is not to say that there aren’t lots of tourists at the park, there are, but the area is so vast that one can quickly find places to walk or hike that soon remove one from all the trappings of tourist season.

The best time of year to go to the park is in September, after Amerian schools reopen, although one can expect that weather will affect travel in the area as snow storms are common then.  But, as the fall colors fall upon the range, it can be quite spectacular.

I chose to go in August, it simply worked out better for my schedule.  And while there were lots of tourists around, I still found ample opportunities for photography.

Most travelers from outside the United States should plan on flying into Jackson Hole, Wyoming.  Rental cars are available and flying into the area offers some distinct advantages over driving.  Wyoming is vast.  And one can spend many hours just getting to the area from cities like Denver, Colorado.

Jackson Hole has many fine hotels, but one should make reservations well in advance, paraticularly if travel is planned during the busy summer months.

Better hotels will charge as much as $250 per night for accommodations.  But bargains exist in the area if one searches well.  The key is to book early.

Some Places To Visit

One must visit Mormon Row.  There are three barns remaining along the Row that are among the most photographed in the United States.  Go early.  Real early.  One wants to catch the morning light as it strikes the barns and the Teton Range at the same time.

Expect to be cold.  Expect fog.  Expect other photogarphers to be at the Row when you get there.  And, watch out for the American Bison!  You may find yourself in the middle of a large herd of the animals.  And while they will offer great opportunities for wildlife photography, they are dangerous.  They will charge!

Oxbow bend is another famous place for photographers to visit.  Dozens of photographers will likely be there at sunrise, so make sure you go early and find a spot that offers a good view of the water and the range.  You may find yourself going several times, the light changes dramatically and finding that special moment requires several visits.

Schwabacher’s Landing is a must as well.  Here you will find a good place to park your vehicle and there is a trail that winds it’s way from the cark park to a beaver pond.

There are ample places within the park to find food, gifts, and items you may wish to purchase.  Fuel is readily available at such spots.  But plan on driving 30 minutes to an hour, depending on where you go, to find a restroom or a restaurant!  The park is vast.

And did I mention, elk, bears and moose?  Yes, there are bears in the area, although you will likely not meet one, although it is possible.  Moose and Elk populate the area as well.  Moose are very dangerous animals, much more so than bears.  Avoid close contact with moose!

Equipment

Both wide angle and telephoto lens will be needed.  Wide angle for magnificient landscapes, and a telephoto for wildlife.  I recommend at least a 24mm for landscapes and a 400mm for wildlife. A good heavy duty tripod will be necessary for landscape photography.

Explore

Maps of the area are readily available within the park, although one should acquire maps prior to the journey in order to plan your time while there best.  Remember, the park is vast!  And, getting from one spot to another in a single morning may be well impossible.

Will I go again?

Absolutely.  But next time I will go in late September to avoid the high tourist season and to take advantage of the fall colors that invade the landscape.

Resources

Official site for the park:  http://www.nps.gov/grte/

By Bill, Claire, and Melanie

One of the most photographed places in Scotland is located at Elgol on the Isle of Skye.  Earlier this year, the PTR Team (Bill, Claire, and Melanie) got together and spent a week photographing different locations, one of them was Elgol.

This article is about how individual photographers interpret the same place in different ways.  How composition, the use of a camera for different effects, how different perspectives of the same scene result in totally different outcomes, and how experienced photographers often deviate from one another when capturing light.

Bill admits that he doesn’t do landscapes well.  “I have difficulty with seeing a landscape,” he says, “I was trained as a journalist and I tend to isolate subjects, whereas Claire and Melanie are able to see the ‘big picture’ and use elements of the landscape to enhance their work.”

Both Claire and Melanie have extensive experience in doing landscape photography and for Bill the gathering proved to be useful as another learning experience.

For example, late one afternoon, the three photographers were at the same spot at Elgol.  Here is one of Bill’s shots:

Melanie: “The faster shutter speed here has given a better impression of the rushing wave and has captured nicely the spray resulting from the wave hitting the rock. It may benefit from a little less contrast. Looks like you have a few dust spots on your sensor. Do you want to borrow my Arctic Butterfly?”

Bill: “Gosh Melanie, I need to go get those dust spots out, and yes, thanks, that little beast is a fantastic aid in cleaning sensors, and heaven knows mine is always dirty from changing lens so often.

Course I thought this was a pretty good shot, that is, until I saw what you and Claire found:”

Melanie’s shot:

Melanie: “I have been to the Isle of Skye many times in the past 4 years. My introduction was on a holiday with Skye in Focus. I’d not heard of Elgol until then and my first visit was in the bright, overhead sunlight of a May afternoon. It was a light that revealed some astonishing underwater detail in the rock pools, but really missed out on the impressive wider view. I have many a shot of the wider view by now, but was looking for something different. The lobster creel was lodged a little higher up on the rocky shelf and I had a vision of capturing it in the foreground with the surf rushing through it. It took some time to get the image I wanted, and by that time the light had changed. You win some, you lose some! Claire spotted the creel a couple of days earlier, and we made sure we rescued it from the sea, before we left.  Yes, the tripod, needed a shower afterwards!”

Bill: “I saw that lobster pot, but I did not think of it as a foreground element.  Just goes to show you how a photograph can be improved by simply looking around and using what is there in a special way!”

Claire’s shot:

Claire: “While Mel was concentrating on the lobster pot my eyes were trained a little higher on the clouds that were forming and the colour that briefly put on a show. I obtained a long exposure by using a full ND filter with a ND grad to turn the water into a reflecting, flat area.

It is always interesting to also see how photographers process images. I’ve pushed the colour in this by selecting a shade white balance that boosts the reds and oranges. This I feel suits my scene while the cooler blues work better in Mel’s shot.”

Melanie: “This is a very different and bold shot from Elgol. You spotted the drama in the sky and made the most of it. An inspired choice with the filters as the longer exposure has helped even out the bright areas in the sky and enhanced the plume of cloud over Sgurr Alasdair giving it an almost ‘volcanic’ appearance.”

Bill: “WOW, Claire, I’ve learned something here!  So, if I change the white balance settings I can create a whole different color cast.  And, yes, what you did works wonderfully well.  Gotta try that in one of my images.”

Claire: “One day Bill will teach me how to catch birds in flight but for now we fastward. Still Elgol but a morning and high up on the cliffs. When we left the cottage it was dark and the lack of stars told us that the dawn held little promise.  With hope in our hearts we walked the track, past a house that was for sale and all dreamed a dream of owning such a property in such a location. Initially the light was wrong but we found a huge rock. Finding a good rock is a good start and we all set about visualising how it could be used. I wandered closer to the cliff edge and then the light started to hit the mountains in front. They started to glow but the foreground was still dark.”

Melanie: “LOL, I’m beginning to think Sgurr Alasdair is an active volcano! Perhaps it puts on this show only for you.”

Claire: “It became a waiting game. The land caught the light but the clouds dispersed and in my shots I feel the mountains lost their magic but the foreground came alive (in this case with sheep!).

Melanie: “The views from this spot were astounding, and the first play of light on the mountains was a joy to watch. Though we did wait sometime for the light to hit the foreground the sky had lost its magic by then. I found balancing the composition difficult from  here, with the sea giving the feel of a lot of empty space to the left. Here I tried to balance it out with this small collection of rocks.”

Bill: “Well, while Melanie and Claire were producing great shots, I got out my Canon Rebel XTi and my Canon EF-S 10-22mm lens and took this shot.  The reason was that I keep trying out small camera gear that is light-weight and easy to carry.  I’m always whining about hiking to spots for shots.  Something light-weight registers really high on my scale of gear. And considering that the camera cost 1/10th of what my Canon 1Ds Mark II cost me, it ain’t bad. Course, it would have been better if I had waited a tad for the foreground to light up.”

Melanie: ” While Bill was busy finding foreground I was busy finding stuff to fill up the empty space to the left ….

……. not bad light after all if you remember that as we set out that morning it was raining. The day that followed was one of almost Mediterranean sunshine, the breakfast unforgettable – - -.”

Bill: “Breakfast!!!  Something you two always seem to avoid.  Too bad that there weren’t any sausage-egg-and-cheese-biscuits around. Elgol needs a Hardee’s nearby!”

Claire: “Last light , another night and a different tempo.”

Bill: “Yes indeed Claire, there is something about the waves at Elgol that lifts the spirit,  especially as the sun is setting and the waters turn gold. And, Melanie, I hope I got the dust spots out of this shot.”

Melanie: “Looks like you cleaned the sensor well this time Bill, looks like you might have used your tripod again too. A lovely result on this one, I hope you are pleased.”

Bill: “Thanks Melanie, yes I am pleased, and I am grateful to you and Claire for your advice and suggestions on how to do landscape photography, one of the great benefits of working as a group is how we learn from one another, your mentorship has paid off.”

Melanie: “Our last visit to Elgol was not quite so kind, the light was very dramatic, between the drenching hail showers. We did have to work hard, to keep ourselves warm, the cameras dry and to keep the hail, rain and seaspray off the lenses and filters. Claire’s stunning shots below show just how dramatic that last light was.”

Melanie: “Despite all my efforts with shower cap, micofibre towel and kitchen paper, most of my shots from this last evening were blemished with water drops and seaspray. Frantic wiping with my limited supply of kitchen paper resulted in smearing across the filters creating copious and unsightly flare. Not until the sun finaly went down did I get one worth showing you here.”

“I believe we all thoroughly enjoyed our time at Elgol. One of the benefits of being part of a group is it makes you go out in conditions you may not if you are alone. Thumbs up to Claire for getting us to walk along the top that morning and finding something different.”

Bill: “Yes, indeed Melanie, Claire’s suggestion about the walk above the beach turned out to be a great experience, there is nothing like getting a new perspective on a location, it pays to look around and, I hate to admit it, walk a good distance. I promise not to whine on our next visit here. The last two shots from Claire speak for themselves.”

Claire: “Glad to hear we’ve converted Bill to walking – maybe the coastal path to Loch Coruisk via the notorious ‘bad step’ next time?”

by Bill

Location:  North of Dunedin, Florida, on Bayshore Boulevard to Curlew Road, then West to the park entrance.  Ask the Park Ranger how to find the trail, it is located on the North side of the park about two miles from the gate. A map of the area is here.

Why go?

Florida is blessed with abundant wildlife, and among the most spectacular to photograph are Ospreys.  Honeymoon Island State Park has a large population of Ospreys that nest among its large pine trees along the Osprey Trail.  Accommodations are reasonably priced, and it’s a wonderful place to take the family with some of the most spectacular beaches in the world.  There is much to do in the area, Bush Gardens is about 20 miles away, Clearwater Beach is fantastic with a wealth of great restaurants, and there is the Pinellas Trail which runs for miles along an old abandoned rail road track for those who love to bicycle or walk.  Downtown Dunedin is filled with antique shops and excellent restaurants.  It’s the perfect place to go for the serious photographer who wants to find a spot that the family can enjoy as well.

Highlights

I have visited the Osprey Trail many times and I am never disappointed in finding great subjects to photograph.  Along the Dunedin Causeway on the way to Honeymoon Island State Park, one can find ample opportunities to photograph birds.  And, it is easy to find a spot to park your car.  The park opens at 8:00 AM, so I often go early and work the causeway at first light.  When the light is good, one can capture what only Florida can provide, fantastic colors at dawn.

And, if one is lucky, a passing Osprey might provide one with the chance to get that very special shot, an Osprey with fish, much as I did here one morning on my way to the trail.

Upon arrival at the park, there is a great parking area with restrooms and a map that shows one the outline of the Osprey Trail.  It’s about one mile from the parking area to the best spot for capturing Ospreys as they nest.  Look for dead trees on the left.  Ospreys love them as perfect spots for their nests.

But, what is more wonderful is to capture shots of the Ospreys as they return from fishing and to hear their cries.  During March and April, I have counted as many as 30 nesting pairs along the trail.  It is always a delight to hear them interact.

Lowlights

During the summer months the trail can be a terrible place to be.  Mosquitos are there by the billions.  Trust me, go in March or April if you want to be free of the insects.  Florida now has the West Nile Virus so make certain, even when the days are warm, to cover up.  I never walk the trail unless I am wearing long-sleeve shirts and long pants.  Insect repellant is a must during some days, unless one is blessed with a good wind.

When to go?

The best months are March and April, this is the breeding season and one will find dozens of Ospreys building nests along the trail.  It’s also a great time because the days are often clear and the cool mornings make for a pleasant walk.

How to Get There

Tampa International Airport is located across Tampa Bay from the Pinellas County penisula.  It’s about a 15-mile drive from the airport to Dunedin.  For those who live in the USA, or in close proximity to the Dunedin area, driving is easy with excellent roads leading into Pinellas County.  Interstate 75 and US 19 lead into the area from the North.  Interstate 10 leads to the area from the East.  Follow this link for a map of the area and this link for information about Honeymoon Island State Park.

Where to stay?

There are hundres of hotels and motels in the Dunedin/Clearwater area.  A Google search should provide you with ample choices and selection.  Where you stay depends on whether your family will accompany you.  My first choice would be to stay at Clearwater Beach and let the family enjoy that area.  But, frankly, the hotels and motels in Dunedin are much more reasonably priced.  It is more costly at the beach.

Advice for Travelers Based on Personal Experience

Plan your holiday to include more than just a visit to the Osprey Trail.  The area is fabulous for a family vacation.  Disney World is a two-hour drive from the area, Bush Gardens is a great place to spend a day, and the Clearwater/Dunedin area offers great beaches, shopping, and opportunities to just chill out.  Make sure you bring clothing for both the beach and visits to nearby attractions.  The whole of the area is classic Florida casual.  Forget the tie.  Pack some good beach shoes, the kind you can get plenty wet because you may want to wade into pools at low tide for great bird photos.  And by all means go sailing or kayaking at the Causeway.  And, your family may love the idea of taking a boat trip from Honeymoon Island to Caladesi Island.

When the light is good.

Get out early.  Sunrise along the Dunedin Causeway can be spectacular.  Sunset at Clearwater Beach or in Honeymoon Island can’t be described, it is awesome.

When the light is bad.

Take the family to Bush Gardens.  It’s a wonderful attraction.  Explore other parks in Pinellas County, many of them offer great photographic opportunities.  It’s always good to explore and plan for a return later when the light is good.  One of my favorite parks is John Chestnut County Park.  It’s a great place to spot Red-shouldered Hawks.

Will I go again?

Absolutely.  I can think of no place else in the world that offers a greater variety of birds to photograph.  And, the whole area is family friendly and perfectly safe for the family.

By Bill

Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is located in Lake Clark National Park, Alaska.  For a photographer, it is a place to photograph Brown Bears while on foot without the protection of weapons, vehicles, or hides.  One might say it is the ultimate adventure for a wildlife photographer.

Bear on Beach

David Coray, the owner, bought the lodge in 1983 and has since improved the facilities considerably.  The lodge was originally a fishing camp and lacked many of the ammenities it now enjoys.

One can now expect comfortable rooms with en suite facilities within the lodge, or a newly acquired second lodge located a short walk away, or one can experience Alaska in a small one-room cabin without heat, running water, or flushing toilet (an outdoor toilet is close by).

Additionally, David can arrange for you to spend your time there in a tent.  Which accommodation you choose is entirely up to you.  One might say that the lodge is Alaska.  One can go basic, or one can go comfortable.  I chose comfortable.

Most importantly, though, is the atmosphere of the lodge, it’s location within Lake Clark National Park, and the staff and visitors who come and go throughout your time there.  It’s very much like the great TV series “Northern Exposure” with constant surprises from the people one meets.  A guy with a long beard, wearing jeans and boots, who one would not want to meet on an urban street, may start discussing how to install a solar panel to generate electricity, or a book written by some esoteric philosopher. In fact, everyone I met there had wonderfully diverse life experiences, and all of them were friendly and immensely interesting.  I recall a discussion with my guide Drew about his experience living in Nepal!

One finds a large library, DVDs, and dozens of photography books within the main lounge.  And, yes, there is electricity, a state-of-the-art LCD TV complete with slots for inserting CF cards for viewing shots made during the day.  Internet services are available through a satellite link (although this service was not functioning while I was there).

Meals are simply awesome.  The lodge employees a full-time chef and assistant.  Want something special?  The chef will gladly discuss what you want and then proceed to prepare your meal with zest.  And when I use the word “Chef” I mean a world-class, school trained, and certified Chef!

How to get there?

David will arrange for a flight to the lodge in a small aircraft, he set that up with Homer Air for me.  One can fly from Anchorage, Soldotna, or Homer.  The aircraft will land on the beach in front of the lodge.  That, itself, is quite a thrill.

Being at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is enlightening, I can only recall one other place I have visited in my travels that was it’s equal – walking alone in the Serengeti.  That’s another story.

As usual, I digress.  My purpose in going to Silver Salmon Creek Lodge was to photograph brown bears.  Some people mistakenly refer to them as “gizzly” bears.  Yes, grizzly bears are of the same species, but the grizzlies are smaller because of their habitat.  Brown bears a much larger, about twice the size.  Only the polar bear is larger, but I have read that polar bears will not confront a brown bear because the brown bear is far more aggressive.

But frankly, during my time at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge and Lake Clark National Park, I never encountered an aggressive bear.  Quite the contrary, the bears simply ignored me.  For here the bears have never been hunted, they have seen lots of humans, and frankly, they could care less.  Which means one can concentrate on doing photography while there without fear.  And perhaps, find a shot that is worth remembering.

In fact, one needs to remember while there, that bears are everywhere, sometimes they wander into the lodge area.  So, while there one must expect the unexpected, and if walking around at night to remember that one is in bear territory and bears come and go as they like.  This is not Disney World.

And, while taking photographs, expect to get very close to the bears.  The rule of thumb is to approach within 100 yards of a bear and stop, if the bear moves to you that is fine, and yes, they will move close if you stand still and wait. I recall one instance when my guide Drew tapped me on the shoulder and asked me to move back and away from a bear that was 15 feet in front of me.  Seems I was so intent on getting photographs that I forgot how close I was!

Contact

One should expect the unexpected while at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge.  Like this instance when two young bears decided to play.

Bear Play

Course, one has plenty of time to photograph a bear without hurry.  In fact, Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is all about not hurrying about anything.  It’s sort of a mystical experience, perhaps bordering on the surreal.

Concerto in Brown

In sum, if one is interested in doing something totally different, and one is interested in relaxing, and one is interested in doing wildlife photography, Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is the place to go.

In my view the best time to go is early June.  Why?  There are fewer people there, the bears have wonderful full coats of fur, the mosquitos aren’t out yet, the days are fair, the nights still chilly, and one is not confronted with dozens of folks who are fishing in the area, thus spoiling the photography.

Review Summary:

Accommodations:  5.  Others will differ, but frankly one cannot expect better in this location.

Professionalism of Staff:  5.  Incredible diversity of experiences and wonderfully accommodating.

Food:  5.  Shall I say fantastic!

Coffee: 3.  Starbucks Standard.  I know, but coffee is very important to me.

Cost:  Expensive.  Plan on $600 per day per person plus tips, park fees, taxes. (Cost will likely increase because of fuel price increases in the region).

Photography:  5+ – One will not find anywhere in the world that is better.

Overall Rating of Silver Salmon Creek Lodge:  PTR 5 Stars.