Why Go?

If you want an opportunity to have endless chances to brush up on all genres of photography, both night and day, then this is for you. Hong Kong Island isn’t just skyscrapers, it is about a mass of humanity. Escaping modernity is easy; it is a place of contrasts where poverty rubs shoulders with vast wealth, where the old ways of life are still visible and remote but accessible trails within the New Territories take you far from the crowds.

Since the handover in 1997 Hong Kong has become a ‘Special Administrative Region of China’ that is embedded within the world’s largest Communist country. It is also one of the cleanest and friendliest places I’ve visited. Open a map when you are lost and within moments someone will stop and ask if they can help.

Travel is easy. The public transport system a revelation. Prices from accommodation to food and photographic equipment leave you almost offering to pay more.

The itinerary:

View Google MAP

Day 1 Transfer to hotel via taxi on Silvermine Bay, Lantau island. Catch the ferry to Hong Kong harbour to experience the skyline and get a feel for the city. Travel back on the ferry in the dark to witness the city at night.

Day 2 Visit the Giant Buddha and the Po Lin Monastery by bus as early as possible to avoid the crowds, the bus takes you through Lantau’s mountain scenary.

Move on to the Tao O Fishing Village.

Day 3 Transfer to hotel in Mong Kok (Kowloon) which has the highest population density in the world. Investigate the camera shops. Relax in the park and in the evening  take your tripod and gets those shots of the light and laser show from Kowloon then walk the night markets.

Day 4 Up early to get to the Ng Tung Chai trail by train and bus. Walk the mountain track past stunning waterfalls.

Day 5 Explore Hong Kong Island by day and night. Be at the top of Victoria Peak at dusk. Take a boat  trip to Aberdeen harbour.

Day 6 Travel to Sai Kung and  Tai Long Wan in the New Territories. Walk the trail to Big Wave Bay.

Spend an evening at the Sai Kung fishing harbour photographing the catch coming in on the fishing junks, transferred to tanks in restaurants and then take your pick for your supper.

Day 7 Explore the gardens below Victoria Peak before catching the Airport Express to Hong Kong Airport.
Sleep.

Highlights of my trip:

The Sai Kung fishing village in the evening, seeing the weird and wonderful sea life caught in the South China Sea and then eating some!

The laser show from Kowloon and the amazing deals on photography equipment on Nathan Road with shops full of all the latest equipment with sales staff who really know their stuff. One young lady with an encyclopaedic knowledge of tripods spent an hour with us. Stick with the bigger stores and don’t be tempted by impossibly cheap prices. Tin Cheung Camera Co is recommended

Lowlights:

The smog and heat.
We did too much in a week to get good quality photographs, one has to stop and look and wait to really get “that” shot but I feel I actually know this area, know the places to go back to and how to get there. Quite as achievement in a week for such a huge area covered.

When to Go:

Avoid summer. The heat and humidity even in October was a challenge when hiking. The hotter it gets the more the pollution gets trapped. In October the skies can clear but days with blue skies are rare. The coast in the new territories feels fresher but that haze is there until the light drops and then the colour show starts but even a promising sunset can fizzle out if the ground level pollution is dense. I’m told the best time to visit is November to December, temperatures are around 20 degrees Celsius; there is not much rain, the sun shines most of the time, and it’s not as humid.

Access:

Fly into Hong Kong Airport and from here catch a cab, wherever you are staying it will be cheap enough. The taxis are controlled and there was no worry about being ripped off. Just be aware that only some cabs are licensed to go onto Lantau but if in doubt ask. Everyone is helpful. While at the airport buy your Octopus swipe card that can be used on all major public transport systems (buses, MTR and ferry). I suggest HK$200 (about £12) to start with is plenty and can be topped up all over the city. Ferry crossings cost around 30p.

How to Get There:

From UK the airline prices have been dropping but as from 9th April Oasis Hong Kong Airlines is in liquidation. Some deals were too good to be true.

Where to Stay:

I can only say that the two hotels we used were clean, efficient and great value. The food we ate for breakfast stunning. The reception excellent. The choice you have is over whelming. If I went again I’d just book a night online in Mong Kok, Kowloon using all the reviews online to locate a deal. If I hated it I’d pack up and walk to the next one (probably next door). Hotels for me are places to sleep, location is more important than facilities as I’m out from dawn to late and never get to use the pool.

Advice for travellers:

Buy that Octopus card.

Use public transport and taxis to get to more remote locations – ask at hotel reception for help when you first get there. It really is easy. Everything arrives on time – to the minute. Either do what we did and visit everything or be more selective and have a shot in mind you want and really “work it.”
Don’t be afraid to head out of town and to the coast. The trails are well signposted and there is lots of online literature that will help you plan a good day out. Long views over Hong Kong can only really be realised at dusk and night due to the haze. Night views are stunning from Victoria Peak. Arrive early, walk a bit and watch the city slowly light up.

Look for details and reflections in buildings during the day.

Look for people shots. Spend more time than I did just standing and people watching.

You HAVE to watch the laser show from Kowloon. Go early and plan your spot. Try long and fast shutter speeds. Long, slow ones will, like fireworks, capture more of the action. TRIPOD ESSENTIAL. The Chinese celebrate Halloween big time and the evening parade is worth a look.

Equipment for this trip:

What you don’t have but feel you need; you can buy.
Every piece of equipment you own could be useful. It depends on what you want to do. I’d certainly take a fast mid length zoom to just hang around your neck, as your camera will never be in its bag for long.
A way of downloading and viewing images will be useful especially if you are venturing into new photographic territory. You can go back to hotel, review, learn and return.

When The Light is good:

If you find light with colour use it wherever you are as it is rare. However, bright, diffused light has advantages in some situations, just avoid the sky and wide angles.

When the Light is Bad:

This means monsoon rain. Find a restaurant, eat great food and wait for the rain to stop. The light afterwards just might be the best you see and it will be cooler.

Will I Go Again?

This is on my “hit list” of places I’ve been but will go again as I feel I now know where to linger and could make more of the location photographically. From the UK it is a bit of a long haul but you are guaranteed an interesting experience and photo opportunities. It is now cheaper than ever before to get here. On my next trip I’d head out to more remote locations and would probably stay at the fishing village for at least two nights and spend more time just watching rather than moving to the next destination. I found it incredibly friendly, a place I’d travel on my own and have fun.

Given a chance and the money I’d head to the real China but as an introduction this is to be recommended.

Recommended links Trip Advisor Hong Kong Outdoors

UK Insurance for your trip recommended by PTR:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

By Claire

View map here.

Why Go?

Whilst the whole of the Antrim coast has huge photographic potential with its rugged coastline and beaches with interesting stacks and arches, the lure for me was The Giant’s Causeway. It is an area full of myths and legends and awe-inspiring geology.

About this Location:

The Giant’s Causeway is an area of  basalt columns, formed following volcanic activity. It is located on the northeast coast of Northern Ireland, about two miles north of the town of Bushmills.  It is truly a natural wonder.

Highlights of my trip:

A magnificent sunset over the Giant’s Causeway one evening coupled with treacherous seas gave me my most memorable evening of photography ever. It was challenging and totally absorbing. The crowds had gone and just my brother and myself remained to battle with the spray and dodge the waves.

Lowlights:

Wild winds are great – the weather keeps flowing past with new vistas every few minutes. The down side to this is a rocky crossing on the ferry; the family sat near us ran out of sick bags. Sea spray was also infuriating at times. Filters were cleaned after every shot. A tip I’ve since learnt from Mel – use kitchen towel to clean them. It works.

When to Go:

The Giant’s Causeway is a major tourist attraction and Northern Ireland’s only World Heritage Site. As such it can get crowded. I was there during Easter when one would expect visitors but the weather seemed to drive them home early. In the mornings we had the place to ourselves until well past 9am (which is time to head back for breakfast anyway). I’d prefer to go anytime from October to April when the sunsets and rises are at (almost) sensible times.

Access:

Turning up in the dark on my first morning (car park by the visitors centre is pay and display) I was a little alarmed, as I couldn’t see how I gained entry to the track down to the shore. You actually have to walk through the visitors centre but there is open access at all times. During the day there is a bus that takes the tourists down to the causeway but the walk is easy and there are points of interest on the way down.
For facilities visit The National Trust site.

How to Get There:

Travel to and within The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland is easy with many regional airports and ferry crossings from England, Wales and Scotland. We chose to sail from Holyhead (Wales) to Dun Laoghaire Port (6 miles south of Dublin in the Republic of Ireland) as this is a short and fast crossing and good value with sensible sailing times. A leisurely 3-hour drive got us to our destination. The roads were a joy; whenever I’ve driven in Ireland it has been stress free.

I’ve flown from Coventry and Bristol to Shannon before on budget flights and this is certainly viable for a fly-drive holiday from the UK but Londonderry and Belfast International are nearer.

If you use Londonderry  (City of Derry Airport) onward flight connections are available to many European and World destinations via the hub airports at London Stansted and Dublin. Connections may also be available via Glasgow International, Liverpool, Glasgow Prestwick and Nottingham East Midlands.

In my experience car hire is cheaper than I’m used to paying in many parts of Europe. Petrol prices (as in all of UK) can come as a shock to US travellers.

Where to Stay:

By choice I stay in self-catering accommodation. This gives flexibility as an early start is essential and I’m usually back home after the sun has set. On wet days one can pour over a laptop, catch up on sleep and wash the thermals. Some B&Bs will cater for early starts by offering a packed lunch instead of breakfast but I’m always aware my pre-dawn preparations may disturb other guests. Early booking to get the best cottages in prime locations is essential as many are booked years in advance, especially during school holidays. I try and find somewhere with a good view so I can watch the effect the changing weather has on the land around. I’ve always booked accommodation through the Internet. I have only once been disappointed, turning up in Barcelona to find the accommodation had been double booked.

A good place to start would be Irish Country Cottages great deals can be had off season.

I’ve never hired a touring van but plan to do so and suggest this is a great location for this.

Advice for travellers:

Do your research before you go. Get a good guide book and OS maps. Use a sunrise and sunset calculator with your maps to work out where the sun will be and with experience you can get a fair idea when / if the light will first hit your point of interest.

This site will help you work out times of sunsets and sunrises.

Research weather conditions and expect the worst. Northern Ireland, like all the UK has totally unpredictable weather. I’ve needed full winter gear in August and worn T-shirts in October and February. Waterproofs are always essential no matter how promising the day looks. Footwear has to be a priority on the causeway – you’ll be clambering over slippery rocks and dodging waves.

Equipment for this trip:

I use a Canon 5D. The full frame ability and good resolution make it the ideal landscape tool. My wide angle (17-35mm 2.8L) was rarely off the camera during this trip.

A tripod is an absolute MUST. Neutral Density filters another essential. I like experimenting with slow exposures and will often add a full grad. I use Lee filters and polarizer.  A backpack like the Lowepro mini trekker is another must. I’ve carried this on board planes with up to 10kg of kit.

You’ll need either plenty of memory cards or a way to download. On a good day I’ll use 4gb with a 12mp camera shooting in raw, so I always carry 8gb. I use an Epson downloader that I download onto each evening. I always carry 3 batteries – rarely use one but when it is cold they can drain quicker and you never know when one will fail.
The rain is never far off – my secret weapon is a shower cap that I pop over the camera when on the tripod!

Experimenting with Shutter Speeds

Fast

Slow

Research:

Sites like Irelandscape are invaluable. Some of my photos from this trip can be found here.  Look at what other photographers have achieved and aim not to replicate them but seek out new angles and better light.

When The Light is good:

Stay focused. Don’t waste a minute of early and late (golden hour) light. When tired it can be tempting to pack up and hope the weather will be the same the next day – it won’t. At this location the prime shots will be taken those few hours before sunset, you’ll be working like mad during a good sunset and still hanging on when the sun has set as there can be a startling after glow. Sunrise can be interesting but it takes a while for the sun to hit the land, at this time I look for pools to reflect any colour in the sky such as here:

Once the sun has risen move on.

When the Light is Bad:

Review your shots. Be critical and plan for good light. Take a walk in a potential location. Visit the Old Bushmills Whisky Distillery, Carrick-a-Rede or Dunluce Castle.

Will I Go Again?

To Northern Ireland certainly. I feel lucky to have got the shots I wanted of the causeway but also discovered many more places along this coast that hold potential.

White Rocks. Stretching from Curran Strand to Dunluce Castle are the limestone cliffs that have fabulous caves and arches.

White Park Bay, County Antrim Whitepark Bay. This is a beautiful sweeping bay. At one end lies Portbraddon and at the other end the basalt islands that surround Ballintoy harbour. I had a glorious morning here and would like to return.

Glenariff, the Queen of the Glens, is considered by many people to be the most beautiful of the nine Antrim Glens. On the day I visited it was grey but this area in itself would be worth at least a week’s visit.

UK insurance for trips recommended by PTR:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

Recommended link: North Antrim.

Recommended reading:

UK buyers click here:  The giant’s causeway and the North Antrim coast (Paperback)

USA buyers click here:  The giant’s causeway and the North Antrim coast (Paperback)

Why Go?

If you love mountains, enjoy hiking and want to be able to stay in unforgettable mountain huts with scenes every landscape photographer dreams of just outside your door; this is for you.

About this Location:

The High Tatra are situated on the border between Slovakia and Poland. The majority of the peaks and valleys lie in Slovakia but out of the main ridge lead valleys and terraces where many mountain lakes (tarns) can be found. The three biggest are located within the Polish High Tatra and it is these lakes that make this a photographer’s wonderland.

The Tatra Mountains National Park is one of the largest parks in Poland and the most unique. Together with the Slovak Tatra Mountain National Park it forms a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. 11.5 thousand hectares of the park area is strictly protected. The rest of the park is accessible to tourists – walking, climbing, caving and winter sports are allowed. There are 250 km of mountain trails and routes varying in the level of difficulty but many are walking tracks.

The most characteristic plants of the Tatra Mountains are Swiss stone-pine and edelweiss. The animals most often associated with these mountains are: alpine marmot, bear and chamois (the only European species of antelope). I saw a chamois and bear spore and this in a restaurant ! (photo by Kaz).

Our Itinerary:

After a day in Krakow, worth a visit in itself, we headed for Zakopane and a beautiful wooden house that we used as a base. This popular skiing resort is just 2 hours drive from Krakow.

The second day took us along the Morskie Oko Valley and lake and its more elevated twin, the Czarny Staw Lake. Either walk or take a horse drawn carriage. The lake is the largest and fourth deepest in the Tatra Mountains. In the past, Morskie Oko was called “Rybie Jezioro” (“Fish Lake”) due to its natural stock of fish, which are uncommon in Tatra lakes and these were clearly visible in the clear, still water.

Czarny Staw pod Rysami is a mountain lake on the Polish side of Mount Rysy in the Tatra mountains. At 1,583 m above sea level, it overlooks the lake of Morskie Oko. A walking path circumnavigates the lake  and I’d certainly recommend taking this detour.

Two days and a night in the Gasienicowa Valley. An easy enough walk led us to the mountain hut. After a good meal we headed out to the lakes and valleys.  As the sun started to dip we got some good light, so much so we arrived back too late for supper!

Five Lakes Valley. Another two days and a night in the mountains with a walk that was a little more testing. It was worth it. The trail leads off from the track to Morskie Oko (use the horse and carriage and ask to be dropped off). We encountered a lot more snow and I’d recommend spending two nights here to really explore.

Highlights of my trip:

Waking at dawn, walking a few yards and being in the high alpine mountains and then watching the light arrive.

Lowlights:

The heatwave in Krakow in May on arrival – not really a lowlight but totally unexpected as I’d travelled expecting spring and got summer.

When to Go:

The lower level trails are open all year unless an avalanche alert is made.

In April thousands of tiny crocuses bloom on the Tatra clearings.

May is when spring arrives.

The high level trails had only just fully opened when we were there at the end of May, there was still quite a lot of snow in the high mountains and one trail demanded a bit of careful negotiation over snow and a head for heights (I just closed my eyes).

In June Zakopane gets quiet, the days are long and mostly sunny.

July and August can be very crowded as can weekend in the skiing season.

September is a very good month for hiking trips, the days are still long enough, the weather usually good, there are no more holiday crowds. October might both be very sunny and chilly and sees the first snowfalls in the mountains.

How to Get There:

Fly to Krakow – many budget flights from UK

Zakopane is easily accessible from Krakow. An easy 2 hour drive. Good bus and train services (the bus is more frequent and quicker). Taxis are relatively cheap.

Where we stayed:   (Note 10 Zloty = about £2.30.)

Zakopane: Book well in advance for major holidays and weekends. Our trip was in May half term and there was plenty of accommodation available. I’d happily turn up here without booking at this time of year if I just wanted a room.

There are 8 mountain hostels. We stayed in the two below and visited the one at the Morskie Oko Valley. They are delightful wooden buildings, warm and welcoming with food available and bedding to hire.

The Gasienicowa Valley Mountain Hostel You can book online. Prices about 35 Zloty. Food available.

Arrivals: 8:00 am – 8:00 pm.

The only way to reach the shelter is by foot. The route through Kasprowy requires the least effort, but the most popular trail is the one that leads through Bozcan. In winter, when there is not much snow, both trails are open for hikers. When avalanches threaten, hikers use the route from Brzeziny. Hania has used this route many times in winter.

Five Lakes Valley (Dolina Pieciu Stawow) mountain hostel.

Located at 1672 m on the edge of the Przedni Staw Lake, near Siklawa (the biggest waterfall in Poland).
30  Zloty in a room for 4. There are 68 beds. Food available. Only accessible by foot with a bit of a hard pull at the end.

This is like a British hostel so you may end up sharing with strangers but it was very quiet when we were there. Bedding is available to hire. Even if rooms are full you won’t be turned away but offered a space on the floor! Food is available.

Incredible value, a beautiful building and you can’t beat the location.

Advice for travelers:

Use the trails, visit the hostels.

Once in the mountains ensure you follow all sensible procedures and have the right gear for all conditions, the trails are very well marked but the weather unpredictable. If you hike in the Tatra Mountains, you may experience all four seasons in one day from Summer to Winter.  You need a reasonable level of fitness to get yourself, your kit for an overnight stay and your camera gear up to the huts. The Morskie Oko Valley hut however can be visted using the horse and carriages and the walk around the lake is easy. The down side is that it is a lot more crowded.

The whole of the Polish Tatras are a National Park and you have to keep to the trails.

This is a great trip if you are on a budget. Those used to hostelling will be very pleasantly surprised by the accommodation and knocked out by the locations.

No dogs allowed within the national park.

Equipment for this trip:

Tripod.

A good back pack that will take camera gear, water, rations and extra clothing for the nights in huts. I used my lowepro mini treker but only took my wide angle lens, Canon 5D, plenty of memory, 3 batteries and Lee ND grads on the overnight trips.

A microfibre towel was invaluable.

You can buy water bottle holders to loop onto your bag our belt and these save space in your backpack.

Research:

I was fortunate that my dear Polish friend Hania had organised this trip. One of the pleasures of photography is finding friends from all over the world and sharing your passions. I had met Hania and her cousin Kaz in Skye and they were kind enough to host this holiday. They have extensive knowledge of the Tatra Mountains so I had very little research to do, maybe I should have checked the temperature in Krakow before I’d left though!

When The Light is good:

Get up early enough to find yourself amongst the mountains and look for water for reflections. Predict where the early and late light will catch the peaks.

When the Light is Bad:

Walk the trails, shoot waterfalls and flowers.

Will I Go Again?

Yes. Without question.

UK insurance for your trip recommended by PTR:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

Recommended links:

For guided tours. Bag Outdoor Agency.
Summit Post for information about huts, weather, guide books and maps.
Hiking – epswalks.
Mountain shelters

By Claire

People with families, who also have the photography bug, have to make compromises. It means that on some trips they come too and you have to be cunning to ensure you feed your addiction.

It wasn’t hard to sell the idea of a trip to Granada to my husband, the history and sheer beauty of the Alhambra was enough. The promise of a short drive and a week in a villa with pool on the coast of Spain enticed my son. Mission accomplished.

I was fortunate enough to return here a second time but in spring instead of summer.

Why Go?

The Alhambra (in Arabic “the red fortress”) is a palace and fortress complex  built by the Moorish monarchs of Granada in Southern Spain. It occupies a fine vantage point on the southeastern border of the city of Granada. It is justifiably one of Spain’s major tourist attractions. It exudes history, has hidden corners and magnificent artifacts.

The main way to get a sense of the scale of this place is to wander into Granada and look back. The best photographs I’ve seen have been taken at dusk when it is floodlit. I unfortunately did not have this opportunity as this is dining time for the family and they hid my camera! If someone has a good shot of this I will happily add a link here.

My aim was to capture images from inside the complex. The walls of the Alhambra are full of calligraphic decoration, cursive and kufic writings.

The gardens and fountains are an oasis that would be worth a visit alone.

The entire site covers an area of about 142,000 m². It is huge.

Its most westerly feature is the dazzling alcazaba whilst the rest of the plateau comprises a number of palaces, enclosed by a wall with thirteen towers. The views from here are stunning, especially looking towards the Sierra Nevada (good skiing here).

Granada is a city well worth a visit too. This shot was taken from the Alhambra, it is a compact city with several “districts” that have their own personality.

In addition there are several fine cathedrals.

Highlights of my trip:

Bliss is a day of photography with the family with no one complaining about my “clicking” . They were totally engrossed. During the spring trip it was the light just before the site closed, it turned a rosy red and the buildings glowed.

Lowlights:

Tripods are NOT allowed. This creates challenges inside the palaces. Due to the fantastic sunshine we had on both occasions the contrast range makes exposure difficult. The dawn start with the family – but I’ll tell you how to avoid this.

When to Go:

Avoid summer if you can. Whilst the first trip with family was great to get a sense of the history, one of the reasons I returned was to see it in less harsh light. Intense sun bleaches colour from a scene and the long views towards the mountains were full of haze. The temperature during the summer is also a challenge, though the inside areas were designed with this in mind and are a pleasant escape. In spring it was sunny but cool, the quality of the light much better. As some of the pictures show, with a little patience you can have a view free of people.

Access:

There are a limited number of tickets on sale every day and only 30% of these can be acquired at the ticket offices without a prior booking. The massive influx of people during the high season means that it is important to book ahead and this can be done on the Internet. During my first visit we didn’t know this and queued from dawn in order to ensure we got in. When I returned in spring I booked in advance but it was considerably quieter and was probably unnecessary. You are given “time slots” for admission to cut down on queuing time and to control the flow of people. It works well.

Parts of  this may make it sound awful, but this is a massive site. During my spring visit it felt empty, once inside.

If you are exploring Granada you don’t need a car, if you get foot weary taxis are cheap. There is a huge car park for the Alhambra that is easy to find and you can park overnight, which is what we did having found a hotel within walking distance.

How to Get There:

We flew to Malaga and hired a car as we were travelling onwards. The drive was an easy few hours. As I said above a car is not needed if you just want to explore Granada and there are excellent train and bus links to the city.

Where to Stay:

Take your pick from hundreds of hotels that can be found online. Aim for one within the historic quarter. We found a very reasonably priced hotel that was a 10-minute walk from the entrance to the Alhambra. We just parked the car in the Alhambra car park, walked a bit and found it. There are also some hostels along the same street that looked fun (and cheap when all you want is a bed for the night). This site will help you find something that is close to the action.  They advertise tours, this may be a good idea, one day learning and one day photographing.

Advice for travellers:

Spain is very relaxed. Granada is a city but feels more like a town, if you’ve been to Barcelona expect something entirely different, this feels safe and within two days you really know your way around. Try and find time to wander.

Visiting the Alhambra isn’t really a day excursion. If you can, plan for two.

Equipment for this trip:

Wide angle for the vistas from the walls and some indoor shots.

A moderate zoom such as the Canon 28-105 for details of buildings.

Tripods not allowed so a fast lens is useful indoors.

A grad for the long shots.

Ice cream for the kids.

Research:

Important on any trip, in this case you could just turn up but you’d struggle to understand what you are looking at. You can hire a recorded tour but they drive me mad, I have enough equipment to carry. Use the Internet, a good guidebook or go a day in advance on a tour.

When The Light is good:

Good light here means overcast unless you are there early or late but opening hours restrict you. However, I believe that they do an evening garden opening that may be worth exploring. In February the good light arrives as you have to make your way out – linger.

Blue skies – then seek long views over Granada

When the Light is Bad:

Bad light is when the sun is at its zenith (and several hours each side). Head inside the palaces.

And for the rest of the family:

In the evening go and watch a “zambra”, a form of flamenco that is danced in caves of the Sacromonte, the gypsy district, (where some people still live). We visited one and I wish I had my camera with me. Sit in the many plazas and watch the world go by. Find small cafes well away from the tourist areas – the food is better and cheaper. In the evening buy them good paella and make your excuses (sunburn maybe?) and go find the shot from the town up to the citadel

Will I Go Again?

If I’m nearby, yes. I’ve only scratched the surface. I want that night shot. I do however have my eye on Ronda, another location worth some time in this region that I I’ve visited briefly in bad light and it has great potential. I already know how I’ll convince my husband to join me – the restaurants are first class.

If you’ve only ever been to Spain in the summer, try a week in February and head inland. It is like a different country.

UK travellers. PTR recommendations for insurance:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

By Claire

This trip came about due to a previous holiday in Skye that had been arranged by people who had met on an online photography site. Here I had the good fortune to meet with a Slovenian called Herman Cater and he agreed to organise a trip to his homeland. Two years after meeting this came to fruition. It was a meeting of people who shared a passion for nature, brought together friends new and old and proved to be a fantastic experience. Herman gave us an unforgettable introduction to his country; one that could never had been realised without his knowledge and planning. His photography is featured here and he is featured in an interview on PTR about his Siberian adventures.

I flew from Stansted, London to Ljubljana (with Easy Jet) at the end of May and the drive to the first house in the Logarska Dolina in the Solcava District gave us some idea what was to come, the light was beautiful and at every turn I was seeing things I wanted to shoot. My first impression was how green it was and how pristine and clean – the air had a startling purity.

This first photo was the very first I took on the trip. As soon as we arrived we walked up to touch the snow on the peaks behind our cabin. I never fail to be amazed at the incongruity of being hot and being near snow.

The weather was a surprise and we were lucky, T-shirts were the order of the day but the week before had been cold and wet.

The first morning was an early start to be in place for dawn at Robanov Kot. We met Herman’s friend, Lojze, who proved a wonderful guide. (I have to thank him for his sherpa services when the going got a bit tough on some steep bits later in the week.). Herman picked a fantastic spot and organised some wonderful colour in the sky. I’ve chosen these shots to show how the light changed and how the same stump gave foreground interest up and down the valley.

Later in the morning we walked to a viewpoint that gave us a chance to look down the Logarska Dolina. (Dolina means valley). The clouds were fantastic but quite a challenge to photograph as the contrast was high. We stayed and watched the sun slowly hit trees in the valley. I can’t imagine a more enchanting morning.

I was delighted to see so many meadow flowers. Any spring visitor to Slovenia will be guaranteed to come away with images of the meadows. They cut through the woodlands in perfect harmony, the mountains rise above. It is stunning and for those of us used to the landscapes where farming is intensive it is a joy to see.

The next morning found us up early again and on another meadow with great views. This rolling meadow in the distance really caught my eye and we had a short time with some rosy light on the mountains.

We headed a bit further along the valley and prepared to walk up to a cave through the forest. This next image was an attempt to capture a church with a mountain backdrop. People who know me know I love to shoot water and reflections – I’d found one at last! The churches all seemed to be on the top of hills, many inaccessible by car – great for photography but hard for devotees.

Wood is king here. The log piles probably seem very mundane to those who live here but to my eye they were a constant source of interest; as were all the uses wood was put to. The architecture seems to grow rather than being made, within the more remote areas man’s impact may be present but it never jars.

If you like shooting waterfalls you are spoilt for choice. Slap is the Slovenian word for waterfall and the slaps here are dramatic and abundant.

Herman had organised this trip but we were also guests of a camera club called SVIT. They organised a fun raft ride for us.

What a great morning, this proved to be. Watching Kaz (a friend from Poland) being baptised was especially entertaining. Thanks to all at SVIT for making us so welcome and organising such a fun event. They have many talented photographers.

We changed location to be near the Kranjska Gora region (see map) and I was keen to see the lakes that most tourists associate Slovenia with. Lake Bled is a view that I had seen many times on TV before my visit but the light had changed, it was still hot but hazy and I came home thinking I hadn’t got a picture of this but forgot we stopped briefly here one morning. The sky was not interesting so a B&W conversion helps.

Photography became more challenging as the weather became hot and humid, no dawn or sunsets so it was time to play. If you like flowers then overcast light is good and the opportunities are at every bend.

Later in the week we had one lovely afternoon on Lake Bohijn with a storm and rain and mists.

Religion is important in Slovenia so I had to have a go at adding some images of this aspect of life.

Our new location gave us access to views of the Julian Alps and another beautiful meadow and some brief morning colour.

I have never been in the Alps before and found myself shooting many vertical shots in order to try and capture the height and give some sense of the scale – difficult to do and you really need good light and something in the foreground to achieve this. Having only a week I failed to get the shot I wanted, this is something I’d like to try again but would want to find my “perfect” location and return again and again to find the shot I now have in my mind.

We visited a lake – by this time I was lost but I know I was near Triglav. The colour of the water in the rivers was astounding but I failed to capture it though I did at least get a chance to dabble in water. The water in the rivers is extraordinary. The rocks are white, being limestone, and the water takes on the colour of the land and sky. I cannot describe the colours we saw – was it green or blue? It was certainly something I’ve not seen before but you’ll have to visit to experience it.

The need for hay has a huge impact on the scenery in Slovenia and while agriculture in the UK often spoils the land here the creation of meadows seems so harmonious. I almost feared to walk on the meadows as in the UK wild flowers are so rare they are protected but here they are cut and fed to what I assume are the tastiest cows in the world. This final shot were taken minutes before we got into the car to head for the airport.

No one can say we didn’t make the most of the trip. A HUGE thanks to all who help make it happen and a special hug for Herman who couldn’t have organised a better trip.

I’ve been home a month but can’t shake off the beauty we saw. I will return. I want to experience winter and autumn and also I’m told the meadows get even more beautiful – this I have to see.

Highlights: Being in a meadow looking towards snow capped mountains with cuckoo calls echoing across the valley as the sun came up. Also, sharing this with people who have a passion to find good light in beautiful places.

Lowlights: I was bitten by an Alsatian dog. It was a scary experience but it did leave me with a lasting impression of how kind people can be when you are abroad and in need of help. Herman helped me with the language barrier, acquiring information about whether the dog was vaccinated and at the hospital. The police were helpful and efficient, the man who ran the Zirovnica Backpacker Hostel (Bookings via niko.jakelj@gmail.com) where we stayed drove me to the hospital and helped me understand what was happening and gave good advice. Hania (my Polish friend) held my hand and found the necessary dressings for the wound. The rest of the group had their holiday disrupted but were sympathetic and patient. I thank you all. This is a PTR lesson – you never know what will happen but around every unexpected corner there are people in this world who have big hearts and a possible crisis can be turned around.

Advice for travellers: I was only here for 7 days but I did talk a lot to people who know the areas we visited well. Photographers should aim to travel here in spring or autumn for a “gentle” experience and avoid July and August as the light is less dramatic. Winter in the mountain areas would be very challenging to do what we did. The snow makes most of the higher places we went to inaccessible without a great deal of effort and skill. Some of the places we visited are not on the tourist trail and I’d recommend a lot of research to make the most of good light.

We met an Englishman called Roy Clark who has made Slovenia his home. He writes walking guides and I’d highly recommend reading them. Look here .

Accommodation is cheap (around 20 – 25 Euros a night gets you a clean room, breakfast and evening meals in fabulous locations). This site features  the first mountain hut we stayed in (Alpine dairy cottage in LOGARSKI KOT).

At the Backpacker’s Hostel (Bookings via niko.jakelj@gmail.com) the owner will collect you for free from the train station and even substantially undercut taxi fares to drive you there from the airport. He was happy to accommodate meal times with our strange hours and will drive you to the lakes.

The history of this country isn’t easy to understand – the twists and turns are as tortuous as the mountain roads. The recent history is as complex as the distant past. It is a country that has won recent independence (read about the 10 day war) and is less scarred than other parts of the Yugoslav Republic. Economically it has challenges but everyone I spoke to had a confident air and they were sure that with the present independence and stability the future could be good. I hope so as they are a people who you cannot help but love and they have a treasure of a country that isn’t spoilt and should have the help of the European Community to ensure it can protect its beauty whilst enabling prosperity.

This final image is a sensitive portrait of a Slovenian man by Herman Cater.

Links

Slovenia Tourist Guide

The Solcava District

Kranjska Gora Region

Triglav National Park

To see what others achieved on this trip and a daily report by Herman visit here

Insurance
UK Travel Insurance recommended by PTR

UK Camera equipment insurance recommended by PTR