By Bill Lockhart

You have to want to go to Glenuig.  It’s not exactly on a main highway, and frankly it’s even hard to find on a map. Glenuig (Scottish Gaelic: Gleann Ùige) is a small village in Moidart, Lochaber, Highland, on the west coast of Scotland. It is around 30 miles west of Fort William and 20 miles from Ardnamurchan Point.

But visiting there is something I remember vividly.

Sometimes those of us who do photography get wrapped up in stuff.  Cameras, lenses, filters, backpacks, and when we have spare time working for hours in photoshop, and then reading more and more and more to try to improve what we do.  We forget, I think, to just go; and in the going to enter the world of discovery.

One never knows what is around the corner or what one might find along a deserted road or even in a city.  Sometimes we stumble upon enriching moments that we recall and enjoy.

There is a wonderful loch at Glenuig, in fact, it may be one of the most beautiful spots I have visited in my travels.  But, despite the beauty of the area, the story I have to tell is about someone I met there.  His name is Duncan Sinclair.  Here he is:

Duncan Sinclair

Click on Photograph for a larger version.

Duncan was pulling a boat filled with wood he had found floating in the loch, left over stuff from a bonfire that had been celebrated on Guy Fawkes Night (also known as Bonfire Night) which is celebrate on November 5 each year.  It is a special day when villages all across Scotland build bonfires and come together remembering some obscure chapter in history.  But I digress.

The water in the loch was cold.  I mean cold.  And, here Duncan was pulling a boat through the water with his wellies filled with that cold water and never once did I see him shiver.  It would have killed me!  He hailed me from the water and I replied with a loud hello.  He proceeded to anchor his boat, giving me a lesson on how to do it right, otherwise the anchor rope would have floated and the boat would have been freed.

Then, he proceeds to tell me about his find.  Good lumber that he will use to repair one of his boats.  And he pauses to ask for a smoke and then goes on to ask me where I am from.  “The USA,” I said.  “I know that,” he said, “your accent is not Scottish.”  I laughed.  So I told him I was from Florida.  Then he proceeds to give me a long discourse about weather and how the hurricanes that affect Florida also affect Scotland.  “For years we knew that,” he said, “but it wasn’t until satellites confirmed it that most accepted the fact.”

Hum, I thought, this guy is more than I first thought.  This really came to light when he discussed in detail the elections in America and how wonderful he thought Obama would be as President. And then he talked about the world’s condition and what Obama might offer to people like himself.  And, suddenly I realized that I was speaking with an intellectual, someone who examines his world in great detail.  Here he was, someone that most would avoid, a person with a first rate mind.  But what made the event so powerful in my mind was that it occurred there at Glenuig, one of the most peaceful and beautiful places on this earth.  I think perhaps there is a story there too.  For the beauty of this earth must certain affect our ability to see clearly even on a miserable day when the cold curls one’s toes and the wind blisters one’s eyes.

In next 20 minutes or so I learned a great deal from Duncan, it was one of those special times that we encounter that is enriching.

Most tourists never have the opportunity to meet people like Duncan, or I suppose they might be afraid to engage in conversations with some guy who walks out of a Loch drenched in cold rain with his wellies filled with salt water.  Too bad.  I enjoy meeting people, real people, people who live and work and dream, and more importantly, people who share the same things I do.

Meeting Duncan was a special moment, and I am glad I had my G10 in my coat pocket and that he allowed me to photograph him.  I need to do more portraits of real people.

Special moments are rare.  One should look for such opportunities.

Fired with enthusiasm after a day spent in the striking beauty of the Isle of Skye in March 2008, an after dinner discussion by the founders led to the birth of Photo Travel Review Magazine. Our idea was to produce a web-based resource for photographers with advice and information about places to visit, with or without the help of dedicated tour organizers. We wanted to include ideas about interesting locations within an area, how to get there, where to stay, when to go, etc.

Over the course of the past 18 months, it has become apparent that there are many of you out there who want to share your own experiences of travel, photography and the search for light. Photo Travel Review Magazine now has articles about 32 different countries and six continents. To those who have contributed articles over this time we offer our gratitude for your time and effort and we hope that you continue to find joy in your art and your travels. To those who would like to contribute your own experiences we look forward to hearing from you.

In this our 100th article we wanted to revisit some of the highlights of Photo Travel Review Magazine since it began in April 2008.

From the remote regions of Alaska to the vibrant city of Hong Kong, from the incredible mountains of Patagonia to the heat and dust of an African safari and from Peru, with it’s relics of ancient civilizations to the ultra modern in the classic European capitals of Rome and Paris, we introduce you again to some of those stories now shared because of an after dinner conversation.

We start where the concept was born:

Scotland – The PTR Team Goes to Elgol

By the PTR Team

We begin this post, our 100th at PTR, with an article by the PTR Team.

One of the most photographed places in Scotland is located at Elgol on the Isle of Skye.  Early last year, the PTR Team (Bill, Claire, and Melanie) got together and spent a week photographing different locations, one of them was Elgol.  The article is special because it was at this location that the whole idea of Photo Travel Review Magazine came about!

This article is about how individual photographers interpret the same place in different ways.  How composition, the use of a camera for different effects, how different perspectives of the same scene result in totally different outcomes, and how experienced photographers often deviate from one another when capturing light.

Patagonia, that legendary place . . .

By Rafael Rojas

Before going there we had big plans for reflected peaks in glorious light. Once we arrived, we understood they are very difficult to get, due to the strong and frequent winds. The only solution is to be patient and perseverant. I still remember going to the very same spot in Fitzroy range waiting for a morning without wind. It happened once in a week…but it was worth it. Anyway, normally absence of wind means very clear skies and stable weather…and that is a perfect recipe for dull and un-moody photos of this place.

China, Yunnan Province

By Alister Benn

The world is getting smaller; half a day and we are half the world away. We can check our e-mails on our mobile phones or even watch the mid week sports on the commute home from work. Increasingly we talk about getting away from it all, finding our inner peace, challenging our minds and bodies outside of our comfort zones.

My wife and I elected to take the “get away from it all” seriously and live now in a quiet corner of Yunnan Province in South West China. Located at 2400m (7874 feet), the town of Lijiang is a World Heritage Site with a wonderfully preserved Old Town (Dayan) and the looming giant of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rising to a height of 5,596 m (18,359 ft) to the north. The unique Naxi (Na-shee) culture and the scenery attract hundreds of thousands of Chinese and overseas tourists every year; all of them “getting away from it all.”

England – The Lake District

By Melanie M

The English Lake District has long been associated with tourism. Since the earliest days visitors have strived to convey the images from their minds’ eye to others. Some in words as with the Lakes Poets, some by painting including Turner and Constable, and as the process developed more latterly with photography. George Abraham and his sons were perhaps the earliest photographers of renown in the area (circa 1887). They recorded landscapes and mountaineering images, some of which can be seen in their old premises the now George Fisher store in Keswick.

Tourism is now the primary source of income to the area, but it is not difficult to escape the crowds in pursuit of images to take home with you.

France – La Défense, Paris

By Jure Kravanja

I won’t tell you anything new if I say that Paris is a unique city. Each and every street has its splendor. However, what I am trying to seek in an urban photography is the feeling of loneliness. In my opinion, the encompassing loneliness brings out the best of the cityscape photography, especially if the architecture is more on a minimalist side. This is indeed the case with La Défense. Large squares with little detail are surrounded by glassed business and administration buildings with almost geometrical shapes, making it an ideal setting for the sense of loneliness.

Wales – Llynnau Cregennen, Snowdonia

By Claire Carter

It was the second morning visit that everything came together. It is worth noting that nothing on the drive up had suggested that it was going to be a fruitful journey. The sky seemed too clear. It wasn’t especially still either but as we rounded the last turn we saw that the dip the lake is in was full of mist and clouds were hugging one peak. We had struck gold – we were in the right place and probably the only place in miles where the conditions were showing any drama.

The next hour was a delight. We struggled as the mist came and went causing condensation on lens and grads. The rising sun gave exposure challenges and lenses had to be changed to make the most of changing conditions.

Editor’s note:  The photograph shown was made by Claire during this trip, and was selected by the prestigious Landscape Photographer of the Year Take a View Competition as the Awards Book Cover Image published by the competition.  The competition is regarded as among the best in the world.  The PTR Team is especially proud of Claire’s distinction.

Siberia, Land of Snow, Sky, and Space

By Herman Cater

I was very impressed with the infinity of the country. The beauty is in the space. I found many subjects from landscapes to portraits and covered themes ranging from people at work to religion.

Pit-Jah being an oil town has some wealth but as yet no hotels. I stayed in what can be described as a container that the workers are housed in. It was warm and functional but not accessible to tourists. It is not a place where a visitor can just turn up; you really need the help of someone who knows the locality who can organise accommodation in advance for you. There are some agencies that do tours within Siberia but as you can imagine it isn’t really on the main tourist map.

The Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda

By Mike Johnson

We flew from Johannesburg, South Africa, to Kigali, the capital in Rwanda.  We spent a night in Kigali at the Hôtel des Mille Collines, originally famous as Dian Fossey’s home base and later made famous by the movie Hotel Rwanda.  It was an interesting night with open windows, strange sounds and the excitement of being in Africa for the first time.

The gorillas live among five volcanic peaks called the Virunga Mountains.  The countries of Rwanda, Uganda and Congo intersect in the mountains.  Here is an image from our lodge the first night.  You really get the feeling of “Gorillas in the Mist”.  There are reported to be fewer than 1,000 mountain gorillas remaining, and none in captivity.  Our group was impressed with the apparent concern over preserving these wonderful animals.  Subsequent news from the area hasn’t been as happy as the biggest threat continues to be human encroachment of the gorillas natural habitat.

Photographing the Big Island of Hawaii

By Rick Decker

You’re going to Hawaii and spending a week on the Big Island.  You’ve seen those pictures of beautiful beaches with white sand, blue skies, and lush greens, classic waterfalls and girls in hula.  You probably think taking photographs on the most diversified of the Hawaiian Islands is a piece of cake. After all, the guidebooks say that it has something like 23 or 25 the world’s 28 microclimates.  It has huge mountains towering over 13,000 feet, gorgeous blue water, beautiful sand beaches, rainforest jungle, ocean cliffs, grasslands, spectacular tropical flowers, orchids, a smattering of deserts, and an active volcano that is pouring lava (much of the time) into the ocean.  Voila – National Geographic here you come.

South Africa – Self-drive safari?

By Neil Burton

To see the most famous of Africa’s inhabitants, including the Big Five, people often spend a small fortune for specialty tours and safaris. But here is how you can do it on a budget, and at all times be in complete control of where you go and how long you stay in any given spot.

Your accommodation within the park needs to be booked prior to entering, this was formerly done by ringing the SANparks office or through a travel agent, but thankfully South African National Parks now have an internet booking system. The system is completely up-to-date and is a brilliant way to plan and book your trip, it took me ten minutes!

Alaska, Silver Salmon Creek Lodge

*****

In addition to the articles summarized above and many more, Photo Travel Review Magazine has also enjoyed the contributions of photographers in our Featured Photos Page.  Some of the best photographers in the world have contributed to this page.  We hope to see it grow in the months ahead.  Here are three especially compelling images.

The Fireball
(Alvord Desert, Oregon)

By Marc Adamus

Personal Website

The Gift
(Khumbu region, Nepal)

by Michael Anderson

Michael Anderson Gallery

The Power of One
(Moeraki, New Zealand)

By Kah Kit Yoong

Personal Website

Photo by Dougie Salteri

Mellon Udrigle is a small crofting community that sits at the end of a single-track road, North of the village of Laide in Wester Ross, North West Scotland.

( Mellon fom the Gaelic for ‘little hill’ and udrigle being derived from Norse and meaning ‘gully’ or cleft).

My first visit there was close to five years ago when I was new to photography, and though I thought I knew something about light my technical knowledge was minimal.

I had been staying down the road in Laide when I first visited the beach at Mellon Udrigle in the early evening. My memory is one of rocks glowing pink in the late rays of the day and a vista of magnificent mountains beyond. My attempts to capture it did not do the place justice, though the memory is there.

My second visit was in November 2008, I decided to stay at Mellon Udrigle this time. The first day was one of sunshine and showers, it was a pleasure to be able to dash back inside after each drenching. There were some good moments in the week, but I felt the spot had a lot more to offer.

Having recently acquired the Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III, and not having had the opportunity to put it to the test I decided to travel back North to this spot of memories and take the camera with me.

The drive north was not promising, nor was the forecast and it was with something of a heavy heart that I arrived in Ullapool. I’d arranged to spend my first night in a B&B and had had a vision of visiting some spots I knew in Inverpolly and the coast around Achiltibuie. Let’s just say I visited the spots, and they are still in my list of places to visit again. The  B&B, was delightful with very welcoming hosts.  A fellow guest, who I know only as John, was a fascinating character from Belgium. He knows the Highlands like the back of his hand having spent many vacations there. He did not have his own transport and, as many times before was using public transport, the Post Bus and Shanks’ Pony to get around. He is a wonderful artist, I did get to see a couple of his pieces of work one being a beautiful picture of the island of St Kilda. What was most impressive was that he will not paint a mountain unless he has climbed it. I wonder if there is a photographer out there who does the same?

After a disappointing dawn and a wander to scout a couple of new spots I’d seen on the map, I took the road back to Ullapool. Stopped for groceries in the former Somerfield (now Tesco) and managed again to part with some money in the Ullapool Bookshop.

I arrived at Mellon Udrigle too soon to get in the chalet, but a walk in the brisk wind around the headland watching the Arctic Skuas, cormorants and the odd gannett and the view over the silver, sandy channel to Opinan soon took care of the time.

The next 24 hours continued much in the same vein as the light was concerned but, as I’d journeyed north immediately from work I was ready for some rest. In retrospect that was about the only rest I got for the week, apart from the four hours sleep at night! After the first couple of days of grey and rain, someone decided to switch the lights on and it was time to get out and play.

Having murdered, by drowning a 5D and a 20D, and having had a close shave with a 10D and a rock  I wanted something that might have a better chance of survival. I recalled  a story about Andy Rouse dropping a 1D series camera in the sea and that it had survived. As a fan of getting my feet wet I had hankered after the 1Ds Mkll, but with the Mklll on the market I knew I’d buy it at some point.

What had put me off most was the knowledge I would have to upgrade a pile of stuff to go with it.

My main camera for the past 3 years has been the 5D, and it has served me well. I found it easy to use and the menus easy to navigate. I’ve shot some with the 1D MkllN mainly for wildlife so I have some experience with the weight and feel of the series in my hands. Unfortunately I find landscape photography not as sedentary a pursuit as its wildlife counterpart. My experience of running around with the extra weight on my back was limited. But, you know, you get used to it, or I seem to have done so far. That’s with a heavier tripod too, the last gave up the ghost on the Mull/ Ardnamurchan trip.

This was my real first test of the camera. So far I am pleased with the results. Some good results using higher ISO’s, a big and clear LCD screen and rock solid to hold. After a dreary start to the trip there was a lightshow, with a sunrise the like of which  I’ve not seen for a long, long time. I could turn a 360 degree circle and there was red in the sky in all directions. It was difficult to know in which direction to point the lens.

I will let the images speak for themselves, but it may take a while and a good deal more shooting to share a critical review of the camera.

Accommodation

192 Polbain (B&B)

Clean, warm and very homely with views out to the Summer Isles from your window. Midge my hostess was very understanding. She let me have a light breakfast and made me up a packed lunch with gourmet bacon sandwiches, enough for two people. It is possible to walk from the door onto the surrounding hills, where you will find more than a boulder or two to set the scene against. There is a bar a little further up the road that does evening meals in season.

Ceol Na Mara (self catering)

Basic, but easily adequate, self-catering chalets on the beach. Separate laundry facilities. Plenty of parking. One of the best settings you could have, you only have to open the door and walk out. If you’re too lazy to do that then you can sit and watch the light paint its magic from the window.

Kildonan (self catering)

Five years since I stayed here. Very clean and comfortable with all the facilities you might want. A short walk through a field down to a rocky shore with bags of interest for photographers. Be prepared to wake up early, the sunrise from here can be magnificent.

Best time to go

Late spring, before the midges get going and autumn when the colours in the trees aroud Gruinard Bay, Loch Maree and the Badachro are should be stunning (if conditions have been favourable the fungi are amazing).  Winter can have it’s magic, but many may find it too bleak and wet and there few facilities open to divert your attention.

Other places to visit in the area

Just a very small sample of what there is to see, but places I have visited and spent some time at are:

Loch Maree and Torridon

Shieldaig, by the Applecross Peninsula

Inverpolly, Achiltibuie and the Summer Isles.

Loch Assynt and the Stoer Peninsula

The Lighthouse at Rhue and Ullapool (Pay a visit to the Ceilidh Place while in Ullapool. Great place for a coffee or a beer, good food, artwork and a bookshop to browse for titles of local interest).

Gruinard Bay

When the light is bad

Sit back and listen to the sound of the wind and the rain. Go look for otters, take a boat trip to look for wales and porpoise. Look for macro stuff on the beach. Look at your maps and guide books and go out to scout different locations.

Dundonnell Woodland

When the light is good

Keep going, you don’t know when it’s going to get better.

Melanie, May 2009.

Link to his website: www.douglassalteri.co.uk

Note: Click on Any Photograph for a Larger Version

You need to have a philosophical attitude towards the weather if you shoot landscapes in Scotland, especially in the regions of the country to the West with it’s Lochs and mountains and all of the things we love to look at and enjoy.

I Hate Rain . . . but after rain comes rainbows.

Rain can be the most depressing of conditions in natures armoury, but to the photographer it should be welcomed with open arms. “What” I hear you cry, welcome. Well yes because without rain we wouldn’t have Lochs and Lake (we only have one lake in Scotland).

I Hate Rain . . .but let’s make waves.

We would never see a rainbow, or smell the fresh smell of a grasses freshly washed by a passing shower of rain. Wild flowers wouldn’t bloom, clouds wouldn’t float across blue skies and reflect so beautifully in the Lochs. No more boats bobbing at anchor in the rivers and sailing into the sunset.

I Hate Rain . . . but my Granny was a Loch.

So the next time you sit beside a Loch or wait for the clouds to part and let some light down on your particular bit of heaven on earth, ponder a while the World without rain.

I Hate Rain . . . but Noah was a photographer.

A drab hot place without lots of the elements which make the landscape work for photographers, and forget the dribble of water trickling down the little chink in your waterproof collar and think of all the fun you have doing what you love. The best hobby in the world. Keep enduring the rain because when it slows there might just be a spectacular rainbow arcing across that sky in front of your lens, don’t forget to wipe the filter.

I Hate Rain . . .but I do love beaches

I hope you’ve enjoyed my thoughts on rain and that it might just bring a little comfort  someday when you’re sure the Sun will never shine again, because it surely will.

*****

Douglas Salteri has 50 years of  photographic experience, mostly in newspapers. He first used a camera when he was 12 years old, a Kodak Brownie 127. He started work at 15, processing colour film and making prints for a couple of years, and then moved to newspapers where he worked as a photographer for 20 odd years using all sorts of cameras, Rollei’s, Pentax, Canon, Nikon and Hasselblad.  As he got older he moved to the Picture Desk and worked his way through the ranks, and finally became Picture Editor of The Herald where he retired in 2006. Now happily landscaping around Scotland with  A Canon 5D II and some lenses.  As he says: ” I worked at what has always been my hobby, it doesn’t get better than that.”

“Dougie,” to his friends, he is affectionally referred to as “Lord Douglas” by the PTR Team.

In the days ahead the team will discuss the seminar in great detail, including thoughts about how to deal with bad weather, and impressions of new equipment recently acquired by seminar participants, including the Canon 1Ds Mark III, the Canon 5d Mark II, and the Canon 24mm II lens.  We will also review accommodations, clothing, and the perils of international travel.  We have much to report so please visit again as we outline our experiences during a photographic holiday.

Here, PTR team memer Melanie sets up for a photograph while other participants look on.

Any day in Scotland is a good day, and once in a while the light was good and gave the participants the opportunity to find a subject worth study as in this shot of a Highland Cow by Bill.

As the saying goes, it takes rain to produce rainbows.  And, seminar participants had several opportunities for catching shots of rainbows, as in this shot by Bill of a rainbow over Duart Castle, historic home of the Clan Maclean.

Please visit with us in the days ahead as we show how seminar participants found light in incredibly challenging situations with example photographs done by some of the participants.

We might even see some shots done with the Canon Powershot G9 and G10.  Like this one done of a lighthouse from a Ferry while crossing from the Isle of Mull to Oban.

Also, we might discuss how to attract a Pine Martin using peanut butter, or what it is like to sit in rain for two hours in the hopes of spotting an Otter.

What we will discuss is the wonderful opportunities one can find during a seminar through good discussions, shared advice, and encouragement of one another.

–The PTR Team

By Bill, Claire, and Melanie

One of the most photographed places in Scotland is located at Elgol on the Isle of Skye.  Earlier this year, the PTR Team (Bill, Claire, and Melanie) got together and spent a week photographing different locations, one of them was Elgol.

This article is about how individual photographers interpret the same place in different ways.  How composition, the use of a camera for different effects, how different perspectives of the same scene result in totally different outcomes, and how experienced photographers often deviate from one another when capturing light.

Bill admits that he doesn’t do landscapes well.  “I have difficulty with seeing a landscape,” he says, “I was trained as a journalist and I tend to isolate subjects, whereas Claire and Melanie are able to see the ‘big picture’ and use elements of the landscape to enhance their work.”

Both Claire and Melanie have extensive experience in doing landscape photography and for Bill the gathering proved to be useful as another learning experience.

For example, late one afternoon, the three photographers were at the same spot at Elgol.  Here is one of Bill’s shots:

Melanie: “The faster shutter speed here has given a better impression of the rushing wave and has captured nicely the spray resulting from the wave hitting the rock. It may benefit from a little less contrast. Looks like you have a few dust spots on your sensor. Do you want to borrow my Arctic Butterfly?”

Bill: “Gosh Melanie, I need to go get those dust spots out, and yes, thanks, that little beast is a fantastic aid in cleaning sensors, and heaven knows mine is always dirty from changing lens so often.

Course I thought this was a pretty good shot, that is, until I saw what you and Claire found:”

Melanie’s shot:

Melanie: “I have been to the Isle of Skye many times in the past 4 years. My introduction was on a holiday with Skye in Focus. I’d not heard of Elgol until then and my first visit was in the bright, overhead sunlight of a May afternoon. It was a light that revealed some astonishing underwater detail in the rock pools, but really missed out on the impressive wider view. I have many a shot of the wider view by now, but was looking for something different. The lobster creel was lodged a little higher up on the rocky shelf and I had a vision of capturing it in the foreground with the surf rushing through it. It took some time to get the image I wanted, and by that time the light had changed. You win some, you lose some! Claire spotted the creel a couple of days earlier, and we made sure we rescued it from the sea, before we left.  Yes, the tripod, needed a shower afterwards!”

Bill: “I saw that lobster pot, but I did not think of it as a foreground element.  Just goes to show you how a photograph can be improved by simply looking around and using what is there in a special way!”

Claire’s shot:

Claire: “While Mel was concentrating on the lobster pot my eyes were trained a little higher on the clouds that were forming and the colour that briefly put on a show. I obtained a long exposure by using a full ND filter with a ND grad to turn the water into a reflecting, flat area.

It is always interesting to also see how photographers process images. I’ve pushed the colour in this by selecting a shade white balance that boosts the reds and oranges. This I feel suits my scene while the cooler blues work better in Mel’s shot.”

Melanie: “This is a very different and bold shot from Elgol. You spotted the drama in the sky and made the most of it. An inspired choice with the filters as the longer exposure has helped even out the bright areas in the sky and enhanced the plume of cloud over Sgurr Alasdair giving it an almost ‘volcanic’ appearance.”

Bill: “WOW, Claire, I’ve learned something here!  So, if I change the white balance settings I can create a whole different color cast.  And, yes, what you did works wonderfully well.  Gotta try that in one of my images.”

Claire: “One day Bill will teach me how to catch birds in flight but for now we fastward. Still Elgol but a morning and high up on the cliffs. When we left the cottage it was dark and the lack of stars told us that the dawn held little promise.  With hope in our hearts we walked the track, past a house that was for sale and all dreamed a dream of owning such a property in such a location. Initially the light was wrong but we found a huge rock. Finding a good rock is a good start and we all set about visualising how it could be used. I wandered closer to the cliff edge and then the light started to hit the mountains in front. They started to glow but the foreground was still dark.”

Melanie: “LOL, I’m beginning to think Sgurr Alasdair is an active volcano! Perhaps it puts on this show only for you.”

Claire: “It became a waiting game. The land caught the light but the clouds dispersed and in my shots I feel the mountains lost their magic but the foreground came alive (in this case with sheep!).

Melanie: “The views from this spot were astounding, and the first play of light on the mountains was a joy to watch. Though we did wait sometime for the light to hit the foreground the sky had lost its magic by then. I found balancing the composition difficult from  here, with the sea giving the feel of a lot of empty space to the left. Here I tried to balance it out with this small collection of rocks.”

Bill: “Well, while Melanie and Claire were producing great shots, I got out my Canon Rebel XTi and my Canon EF-S 10-22mm lens and took this shot.  The reason was that I keep trying out small camera gear that is light-weight and easy to carry.  I’m always whining about hiking to spots for shots.  Something light-weight registers really high on my scale of gear. And considering that the camera cost 1/10th of what my Canon 1Ds Mark II cost me, it ain’t bad. Course, it would have been better if I had waited a tad for the foreground to light up.”

Melanie: ” While Bill was busy finding foreground I was busy finding stuff to fill up the empty space to the left ….

……. not bad light after all if you remember that as we set out that morning it was raining. The day that followed was one of almost Mediterranean sunshine, the breakfast unforgettable – - -.”

Bill: “Breakfast!!!  Something you two always seem to avoid.  Too bad that there weren’t any sausage-egg-and-cheese-biscuits around. Elgol needs a Hardee’s nearby!”

Claire: “Last light , another night and a different tempo.”

Bill: “Yes indeed Claire, there is something about the waves at Elgol that lifts the spirit,  especially as the sun is setting and the waters turn gold. And, Melanie, I hope I got the dust spots out of this shot.”

Melanie: “Looks like you cleaned the sensor well this time Bill, looks like you might have used your tripod again too. A lovely result on this one, I hope you are pleased.”

Bill: “Thanks Melanie, yes I am pleased, and I am grateful to you and Claire for your advice and suggestions on how to do landscape photography, one of the great benefits of working as a group is how we learn from one another, your mentorship has paid off.”

Melanie: “Our last visit to Elgol was not quite so kind, the light was very dramatic, between the drenching hail showers. We did have to work hard, to keep ourselves warm, the cameras dry and to keep the hail, rain and seaspray off the lenses and filters. Claire’s stunning shots below show just how dramatic that last light was.”

Melanie: “Despite all my efforts with shower cap, micofibre towel and kitchen paper, most of my shots from this last evening were blemished with water drops and seaspray. Frantic wiping with my limited supply of kitchen paper resulted in smearing across the filters creating copious and unsightly flare. Not until the sun finaly went down did I get one worth showing you here.”

“I believe we all thoroughly enjoyed our time at Elgol. One of the benefits of being part of a group is it makes you go out in conditions you may not if you are alone. Thumbs up to Claire for getting us to walk along the top that morning and finding something different.”

Bill: “Yes, indeed Melanie, Claire’s suggestion about the walk above the beach turned out to be a great experience, there is nothing like getting a new perspective on a location, it pays to look around and, I hate to admit it, walk a good distance. I promise not to whine on our next visit here. The last two shots from Claire speak for themselves.”

Claire: “Glad to hear we’ve converted Bill to walking – maybe the coastal path to Loch Coruisk via the notorious ‘bad step’ next time?”

By Melanie

Though from the name they appear two separate islands Lewis and Harris are in fact one landmass with an artificial separation created in the past by a division in the Clan MacLeod. Lewis makes up the northern two-thirds of the island with Harris to the south.

Why Go?

A trip to the Western Isles is a little like stepping back in time, in some spots you feel you have stepped back ten years, in others twenty, and in others many, many more.

It is a land that is wild and rugged, dramatic in places from the cliffs of the north east of Lewis and the mountains of Harris to the calm serenity of the machair in spring and the peace of the long silver sands on a windless day. You will find ancient relics that are worth visiting simply for the experience of being there, though in the ever-changing light produced by the weather from the Atlantic you will want to get your camera out of its bag to capture some of the wild beauty of times past.

How To Get There

You can fly to Stornoway and pick up a hire car, or you can travel by car crossing by CalMac ferry from either Uig on Skye to Tarbert or from Ullapool to Stornoway.

My Trip

My trip here was in March 2007, staying a week on Lewis and a week on Harris. I travelled by car via the CalMac ferry from Uig to Tarbert. Driving conditions between Broadford and Uig were not the best and it was with a measure of apprehension that I arrived at a ferry terminal empty apart from two vans. We did sail, the crossing was rough but otherwise uneventful. It transpired this was the last crossing to the island for several days and by the following weekend the supply of petrol and diesel was almost non-existent. That the weather was this wild I took as being normal, even when I had some difficulty opening the door of the car because of the strength of the wind. It was not a pleasant drive from Tarbert to my first destination, Aird Uig, a rocky headland on the west coast of Lewis, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. All the way I could see images to capture if the conditions had been just a little kinder.

My self-catering accommodation, The Guard House, was cavernous with a choice of rooms to sleep in. I was a little concerned about the heating, which was powered by a coal-fired Rayburn, but was assured by the caretaker that it kept the place ‘as warm as toast.’ My concerns were not unfounded: there were the ‘epic’ trips out to get in the coal, which meant donning the warmest clothes I had with waterproofs and wellies; having to light the thing to warm up and dry out after a day out and waking up each morning in the cold even if I’d stoked it to the top before going to bed each night. There was a good selection of reading material, local information, a well equipped kitchen, a choice of bathrooms and a restaurant next door (closed as I was there out of season).

My first photographic foray was about an hour after I arrived: a short break in the cloud found me heading by foot down a track to a small bay below the house. Near disaster followed:

I was engulfed by a wave that sent the camera and myself reeling. I beat a rapid retreat, stopping briefly to dry off the camera with my microfibre towel. My heart was pounding and my hands shaking, but importantly we both survived.

After a night’s sleep interrupted by the howling wind, the next morning tried to dawn but didn’t, I was only too happy to stay in bed! My start to the week had been dramatic and in the week to follow there were some very trying conditions, but they did lead to some stunning breaks in the light. I saw some truly remarkable places and was struck by how even the most visited of spots retained  a mood of isolation.

True to form the weather broke on my last day, I took a trip up to the far north east of the island in an attempt to photograph the Butt of Lewis at the first light of day and a trip to Stornoway to stock up on supplies and fill up the tank with diesel that was just starting to be delivered after the cancelled ferry crossings in the previous days.

How different was to be my experience with Harris: calm winds, sunny skies and mountains. My accommodation here was in Stable Cottage, one of four rental properties at Borvemor Cottages a different kettle of fish to The Guard House. Now I had instant, at the touch of a button, electrical central heating but was lacking in home comforts. So not luxurious but entirely practical and functional with its own highland cow

and a delightful, dune backed beach just a two-minute stroll away across a field. Famed for its beaches Harris has more than just these to offer. Visit Undiscovered Scotland to give you a flavour of what else there is to see. I spent several pleasant days exploring and trying to capture some of its allure and charm and had to fight with a brief return of the elements for just one of my days there. Of course it was the battling with the elements that again resulted in the best light.

Personal Highlights

The light at Callainish in the break between hail showers
The light at Callainish IV (Ceann Hulavig)
Sunsets from the beach at Borvemoor
Rainbows at Huisinis
The lighthouse at Eilean Glas

Personal Lowlights

Bright blue sky, with no clouds at Eilean Glas
Keeping warm at Aird Uig
Not appreciating the distances to travel and arriving for sunrise and missing it
Not having the long lens when I spotted an eagle
Fatigue at the end of two weeks of exploring new locations.

Photography tips - based on personal experience

Read as much about your location as you can before you go, trawl the websites and look at the work of others, to give you ideas.

Check out the tide times.

Study some OS maps of the region, I would not have visited Calanais IV, if I’d not seen it on a map.

Be prepared for all the weather the Atlantic can throw at you, make sure you have some sort of protection for your camera, try Claire’s solution or if you want something more expensive try the Kata Elements Cover, don’t rely on an umbrella unless you want to emulate Mary Poppins.

For this trip I had my 5D, the 1DN MKII,  with 17-40L, 28-70L and 100-400 IS L lenses. Velbon CF tripod with grip head,  and a selection of ND grads and a polariser.I could have managed without the 1DN MKII, but I always like to have a spare body.

When the light is good

Get out, stay out and keep looking. Revisit the spots you saw in bad light and make the most of them.

When the light is bad

Get out and take some reminder shots, so you can revisit when things look better. Practice composition.
Go look for wildlife.
Have a nap you may need it.

Travel Tips - based on personal experience

Don’t underestimate travelling times on the single-track roads

When you pass a shop, ask yourself: ‘is there anything I need?’

Be prepared to make yourself conspicuous on Sunday’s, the Sabbath is strictly observed, don’t expect to find a pub/restaurant open, don’t expect to be able to buy petrol and don’t hang out your laundry!

The main supermarket is in Stornoway, though you may be surprised what some of the community stores have to offer.

Be prepared for some long daylight hours, remember how far north you are.

Sign posts are more often that not in Gaelic, you have been warned.

Will I go again?

Definitely, next time not alone. Keeping up the enthusiasm in the conditions I experienced was difficult towards the end of the two weeks. A like-minded companion is invaluable.

Recommended Reading

The Soap Man by Roger Hutchinson.   The story of Lord Leverhulme and the Islanders.

Children of the Blackhouse by Calum Ferguson

Walks in the Western Isles by Mary Welsh, another delightful walking guide from this author with illustrations by Christine Isherwood.

The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands armchair reading and practical information for those who do not want to trawl the net.

UK travellers. PTR recommendations for insurance:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

The Misty Isle – Eilean a’ Cheo (South Skye)

By Melanie

Why Go?

Of the Hebridean Islands, Skye is perhaps the most accessible.  Here you will find  wild and rugged landscapes, with a wide range of places to stay, plenty for your family to do and easy visiting to some of the highlights of the mainland.

For the purposes of this review I’ve confined myself to the southern half of the island, the north I will talk about in a second review.

When to go?

I will always recommend out of peak season for any photographic trip in Scotland, accommodation is less costly and it is again the autumn and winter months that will make the most of the landscape. If it is wildlife you want to see you may have to brave the summer and the threat of the carnivorous midge.

How to get there?

For visitors from the UK, I would again recommend driving. For those from outside the UK the closest airports are again Inverness and Glasgow where car hire is available, though you may want to book this in advance. The advantage of arriving in Glasgow is that you get to drive through Glencoe, though if you don’t mind a detour, you can always visit from the Inverness route.

The most popular way to get to Skye is over the Skye Bridge (map) now toll free. This way you get to experience the splendour of Glen Shiel, Loch Duich, and pass most photographed castle in Scotland, Eilean Donan.

The second most popular route is ‘The Road to the Isles’ Taking the road to Mallaig from Fort William, passing Glenfinnan and its monument (map) with the railway viaduct made more popular now by the Harry Potter film, The Chamber of Secrets as Hogwart’s Express steams its way over en route to the Academy of Witchcraft and Wizardry. You will also pass the silver sands of Arisaig and Morar, with Camuasdarach Beach (used in filming of Local Hero and Highlander)

For those interested in a more lengthy detour take the Corran Ferry, between Ballachulish and Fort William. Then drive through Glen Tarbert taking in the magnificence of the mountains and keeping an eye out for the herds of red deer. You will no doubt find detours along this extended route to Mallaig, but perhaps most worthwhile visiting is Castle Tioram, again a ‘big Screen’ location this time in Highlander III and Rob Roy.

The above two routes will terminate at Mallaig, the harbour here is worth a look in itself. From Mallaig take the Calmac ferry across to Armadale.

There is one final ‘road route’ which is a little gem in itself. Take a left at Shiel Bridge from the A82 and drive to Glenelg, there take the little 6 car ferry across to Kylerhea, following the channel that once cattle were made to swim across to get to market on the mainland.

What to photograph ?

If you’ve managed to arrive on the island and not been distracted en route you will find a wealth of photographic opportunities:  the magnificence of the Black Cuillin against the streams and waterfalls of Sligachan and Glen Brittle;

the mountains from the beach at Ashaig; on a still day reflections in Loch Ainort and Loch Slapin; the peaceful little loch of Cill Chriosd with its graveyard and ruined  church; the Sleat peninsula with the beautiful lighthouse at Isle Ornsay;  the bay at Tarskavaig the ruins of Dunscaith Castle between Tarskavaig and Ord; and, finally ending up to catch the sunset at Ord itself.

Talisker Bay is well worth a sunset visit if you’ve been to Glen Brittle, especially at low tide when you can catch reflections of the sky, sea stack and waterfall in the wet sand.

The rocky shore at Camas Malag ( take a left to Kilmarie on the road between Broadford and Torrin).

Finally there is Elgol almost deserving of a review in its own right. I will only say that the best time is sunset, though you may be surprised at some of the early morning light you can catch, especially if you site yourself a little higher than the beach. You can download a screensaver for Windows of Elgol from here.

I hesitate to reveal more locations as a lot of the fun is in finding your own special spots.

Approximate locations for the above spots can be found here.

Personal Highlights

The days of calm winds when reflections are perfect, the days of changeable winter weather when the light reveals itself at its most magnificent, and the days when you find one little scene that you did not see before.

Personal lowlights

Driving to the north of the island, in search of the images in my mind and encountering conditions quite different from those I’d left (barely being able to open the car door for the strength of the wind being just one).

Encountering boot-sucking sands at Isle Ornsay and nearly losing a welly.

Car vandalism on the Skye Bridge.

What to take?

Camera, memory/film, storage. Long, wide-angle, and macro lenses. Tripod, filters (especially ND grads for the landscapes, and polariser to capture underwater detail.

An umberella, to protect the lens from light showers, or something closer fitting such as a shower cap from heavier rain/hail etc.

Camera backpack

Warm and waterproof clothing and sturdy footwear , wellies included.

OS maps:

Skye South

Guide books:

Short Walks on Skye lots of close to the road stuff to be found here

Walks on the Isle of Skye a delightful book, one of a series covering areas the author loves

The Isle of Skye: A walkers Guide you will support my local community if you buy this one

Where to stay?

I have always stayed in self catering accommodation, it gives you the freedom to go out when you want, come back when you want and the chance of a nap in the day.  Will often end up cheaper, especially if there are a few of you and you save money on eating out.

Places I’ve had experience of and can  recommend are:

Winkle Hall at Kyleakin, so close to the bridge and easy access to the mainland and spots you will want to visit on the island.

Eilean Ban Once a home to Gavin Maxwell and you get a lighthouse on your doorstep. (it was here I encountered car vandalism, since had the advice to park at the Skye end of the bridge on Saturday night).

The Old Church Beautifully appointed with a number of bathrooms to match the number of bedrooms and space for all to enjoy. A wonderful setting a well suited to a small group of photographers.

Struanlea Small, compact, studio type accommodation. Basic, but with wi-fi access.

Marble Hollow Bunkhouse-style accommodation, clean, well equipped and very suitable for a group.  Very obliging owners.

Fossil Cottage Right on the shore, so you don’t have to leave your doorstep to see how the light is, and only 10 paces to get a picture! Wi-fi access.

The Otter’s Place A magnificent setting and with all the comforts you need.

Half of Two Design at its best.

When the light is good

Get out, stay out and keep looking.

When the light is bad

Explore and look for detail.

Head to the west, the light has an uncanny habit of popping through at the last moment.

Park down by a lochside and watch for wildlife, you may see an otter!

Look at your maps and guidebooks and get planning.

Stuff for the Family

A  Bella Jane boat trip to Loch Coruisk.

The Serpentarium at Broadford.

Head over to the mainland  and the village of Plockton.

Take the ferry from Kylerhea to Genelg , go look at Bernera Barracks, the Glenelg Brochs and take a walk down to the shore at Sandaig, where Gavin Maxwell made his home and the inspiration for Camusfearna and Ring of Bright Water.

Will I go again?

Yes, yes, yes – though I have a hankering to spend more time on the outer Hebrides, Skye is that little bit closer for a week’s visit.

UK Insurance. PTR recommendations:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

by Melanie

Scotland

Western Scottish Highlands

28 miles of the A82, beginning opposite Ben Dorian north of Tyndrum and ending at Ballachuilish. (Detours not included)

Why Go?

Some may tell you this alternative name for Glencoe is derived from the Massacre of February 13, 1692. For the landscape photographer it is a place that will have you weeping either with joy or frustration. Whatever your experience you will fail to return home without some of the landmarks and the light etched in your heart and mind forever. The Scenery is magnificent with mountains, moorland, waterfalls, whirlpools, inland and tidal lochs and the odd red deer or two. You will see images everyway you turn. Many images you can capture within a few steps of the road, though you will be rewarded if you explore a little further.

Personal Highlights:

Arriving before dawn to find the water of Lochan na h-Achlaise mirror calm with low cloud turning pink before my eyes.

Taking a stop at a picnic spot for coffee from the thermos and finding this place:

Personal Lowlights

Death by drowning of my 5D just after a hail storm passed. PTR recommends you always have camera insurance .

When to Go

I have travelled this road many times in the past 5 years, but have always avoided June, July and August. From June to September you will be at the mercy of the midges when the light starts to look good, and there will be plenty of tourists quick to wander into and slow to leave your frame.

Autumn and winter are the times to be recommended. At these times of year there is always the chance of snow and the colours in the foliage and the ground are more pleasing to the eye than the endless green of the summer months.

Weekdays will always be quieter than weekends.

How to Get There

It is a location you can visit independently or if you want the company of like-minded folk you can organise to go with a dedicated photographic tour Light and Land and Photograph Scotland being just two of the many that travel to this area.

For the independent traveller in the UK your best bet is to drive.

For those outside the UK the closest airports are at Inverness and Glasgow, car hire being available at both.

After you pass Ben Dorian, 4 miles on the road out of Tyndrum the opportunities are endless. Many you will spot from the car, just find a safe spot to park.

Where to Stay

A Google search will find you many a spot. Those I’d recommend are:

Scorrybreac Guest House, Glencoe. A delightful B&B in beautiful surroundings, with understanding owners who gave us a packed lunch instead of breakfast so we could head out and not miss the early morning light.

Clachaig Inn. Good, clean self catering and B&B accommodation. Wholesome food. Traditional in style and frequented by climbers.

Kings House Hotel never heard a bad word said and if Light and Land uses it, it can’t be bad

Ballachulish Hotel if you want old, traditional and expensive then this is the place to stay.

Advice for travellers (based on personal experience)

Get out early and stay out late.

Dress for all weathers.

Wellies make great footwear, being well suited to bogs and standing in water.

Invest in spikey things for footwear: Grivel Mont Spider Crampons great for walking over icy surfaces and slippery rocks (not to be used for winter mountain conditions).

Get some OS maps and study them in detail.

Be prepared for rain and invest in a thermos.

Be careful at all times and keep your camera anchored to you or it may follow the fate of mine.

Other Attractions

• The Jacobite Express, steam train ride from Fort William to Mallaig

• Castle Stalker

• Kilchurn Castle at Loch Awe

• The Ardnamurchan Peninsula

• Harry Potter locations

If you are travelling with family there are beaches, streams and waterfalls in abundance. Plenty to keep them entertained.

When The Light is good

Stay out and keep looking you will find something at every turn.

When the Light is Bad

Stay out and hunt out potential spots.

The Glencoe Visitor Centre a great place for shelter with coffee, soup and bacon butties.

Clachaig Inn for a pint before a roasting fire and the atmosphere.

Head to the coast and catch the waves.

Head to the Glen Etive with its roaring river and falls, catch the canoeists dicing with death and hunt out the herd of young stags.

Will I Go Again?

Yes, without a doubt.

It’s magnificent to be there in all conditions. Even when it rains it looks like the hills are bleeding and you feel the atmosphere of all that went before.

It is also on the road to Skye, the subject of my next location.

PTR recommendations for UK insurance:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

By David Stevenson Website

The trip started as a birthday present to me from me. I happened to be in the Scottish Seabird Centre and was asking about possible photography opportunities of Puffins and was told about their photography trips to the Bass Rock for the gannets. I signed up there and then (after asking my wife obviously) and paid the £89. For this you get the trip to the island, around three hours on it and a chance to see/photograph the gannets diving on the way back. I was also warned that landing was very much weather dependent, but that they would let me know the night before if it was going ahead or not. Sadly the first two dates I could manage were cancelled, but it was third time lucky.

The day came and was a lovely bright morning, though a lot earlier than I usually see! We had to meet in Dunbar harbour for about 06:45. My first piece of advice would be to stop off in one of the service areas on the way and go to the toilet as there are no facilities in the harbour at that time of the morning. Parking is no problem, there is limited parking in the harbour, but much easier to park in the car park of the swimming pool and walk the 2min to the harbour.

The boat trip takes about an hour and uses a working lobster boat. The trips are limited to 12 people and there was a nice friendly atmosphere on the boat. As we neared the island more and more gannets started to appear. It was tempting to start trying to get some flight images, but not worth it as much better opportunities were to come. The landing is on to some stone steps and it was clear why any rough weather would make this impossible. As long as you listen to the advice given, there is no problem getting onto the island though.

Once there the first thing you will probably notice is the smell, oh yes. This is closely followed by the noise and the sheer experience of being so close to so many birds. Before you are allowed to go running off with your camera there is a safety and behaviour talk. Basically you stick to the paths up to an area above the lighthouse (the island itself has an interesting history which is worth looking at). Although this sounds a bit limiting, in reality, it isn’t. Paramount to the organisers is the welfare of the birds (as it should be) and any disruption to them is kept to the minimum.

At first the experience of just being there and watching these marvellous birds was almost overwhelming. They were all around, building nests on the ground and swooping overhead. I was most interested in flight shots initially and so got myself into a likely position and just sat there trying to pick off individual birds as they flew past. I changed positions a few times and managed to get some images that I was happy with of gannets in flight and coming in to land.

I took the same approach for the gannets on the ground, settled down as close to them as I could without disturbing them and just quietly sat or lay there until they were used to me. They then pretty much ignored me and got on with what they were doing: fighting, mating, nest building etc. The two biggest problems I had were trying to separate individual birds out from the rest of the colony and the temptation to just watch them as I found them fascinating.

I had taken a bag with water/windproofs (living in Scotland I know our weather) and something to eat and drink. To be honest though I only stopped for a drink once as I was so caught up with photographing the birds. Luckily the weather was lovely and I didn’t need the foul weather gear. Again there are no toilet facilities on the island, although there are some out of the way bushes (you need to be careful though as there are one or two webcams!)

When it was time to leave people gathered around the landing stage at the bottom. This also gave a further photo opportunity as there were some shags in the area as well. Although getting close enough for an image involved crawling over some guano covered rocks (and consequently smelling pretty badly afterwards) .Once on the boat again there is 30 mins of ‘chumming’ (throwing fish parts into the water). The gannets swarm around the boat at this point and then show of their diving prowess. You are advised not to use a long focal length. Sadly I hadn’t changed lenses in time and the birds were too close for my 80 – 400 to focus on the diving birds.

All in all the trip was worth every penny, both for the experience and the chance to
photograph the birds.

All images by David Stephenson. Nikon D300, Nikkor 80-400VR.