Last year I decided to focus my camera more on the area where I live. This was partly because I had at last found time to display my prints in our shop window and needed more images of the locality but also because I live in a very pretty part of the country and I had sadly neglected it. It does lack open stretches of water, which for me is a frustration, and I had been in the habit of running to the coast as soon as I had some time. Forcing myself to stay put  meant I had to try and open my eyes to its charms and work to a different formula where reflected skies and rushing tides played no part.

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I live in a small town (or large village) called Cleobury Mortimer in the south of Shropshire. It isn’t on the tourist map and most UK residents will never have set foot in it, though Brummies will maybe have driven through on their way to Wales and the nearby Ludlow with its Festival, castle and well known restaurants are crowd pleasers.

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In the distance of the photograph above you can see a snow covered Clee Hill (Titterstone Clee). This is my stomping ground. A place my dog and I  know well. It does have some rather unattractive radars on it but these in fact hold a certain fascination for me and last year I found myself there after dark hoping to catch a rare glimpse of the aurora that had been predicted. The lights hitting the clouds in the image below are coming from the urban mass of the West Midlands – obviously hiding any chance of seeing what I’d come to see but this helps to locate where I am.

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Being just a 10 minute drive from my house I can dash to this hill when the light looks promising…

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…or I feel a morning mist in the air.

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From Titterstone Clee you can see Brown Clee with great views across the Welsh Marches.

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Another nice walk is around Catherton Common. A tree here had caught my eye many times and at last this autumn I found it looking at its best.

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There is also a tree I can see from my house and I set myself the challenge of trying to catch it in different conditions and from varying angles. This proved useful when the weather made driving difficult and this last winter was certainly one to remember.

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This ancient oak is within the grounds of Mawley Hall.

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Mawley Hall can be seen here below within a shot of the tree near my house mentioned above. By walking around and using different lenses I have learnt a lot about how a familiar object can have a thousand different perspectives.

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Below is Hoary Ridge and the parish marker.  A treeless landscape with a great view that needs something to add height and interest and this marker does the job, add some golden light and a rainbow and I am happy.

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So what have I learnt by staying at home?

First it is easy to be lazy. You can wake pre-dawn and convince yourself that it doesn’t look promising and after all – there will be another day. When on location I never do this as I know I have few days to get the shot I want.

Second, when there is no water to add reflections or mountains to add height trees can fill an empty space. You can walk around a tree and get different moods so have a circular dimension that larger features don’t have.

Third, with a little thought there are many opportunities that can be walked to and this means you can “curtain twitch” and respond to the light.

Lastly, familiarity kills seeing what is in front of your nose. I have had to stop wishing myself elsewhere and appreciate what I have on the doorstep.

PTR is a site dedicated to travel, but there are different ways to make a journey. This is one I can continue whenever I have a spare hour and it is one I am glad I have begun

Claire Carter  www.carterart.co.uk

Inspiration often comes in special moments, as Crowfoot, a Blackfoot warrior observed:

“What is life? It is the flash of a firefly in the night. It is the breath of a buffalo in the wintertime. It is the little shadow which runs across the grass and loses itself in the sunset.”

Our Team has watched the little shadows run across the grass on distant shores. The light we have found is shared here to encourage you to find an adventure of your own.  Much like Team Member Melanie as she considers the morning light.

Click on Photograph to see the Original Version

Since our first post, we have gathered articles from 40 counties and six continents from readers like you, who have found special moments and inspiration from their journeys.

We wish to thank all who have contributed their work here during 2010. We look forward to the coming year and new articles from those who share our passion for travel and adventure.  Please contact us if you have a travel adventure you wish to have published here, we are eager to share what you have found.

We wish that you find light in your life during the new year, that you have good health and prosper.

Thank you for visiting with us.

Please enjoy a slide show we have prepared from some of our images from the year 2010.  The slide show takes a while to load, so bear with us.

Our best regards,

Claire, Melanie, and Bill —   The PTR Team

A PTR Review:

By Bill

Name of Travel Agency: Audley Travel

About Audley: Audley Travel are specialists in tailor-made individual itineraries for discerning travellers seeking authentic experiences around the world. Their reputation has developed through a deep knowledge and interest in the countries and regions they operate in as all of their staff have either lived in or travelled extensively through these regions.

Cost: Expensive – For this journey: $700 per day per person plus airfare from Tampa to Quito and tips. (In 2008 US Dollar Values)

Method of payment: Wire Transfer (Audley Travel charges a fee for credit card charges made from countries other than the United Kingdom). Deposit required prior to departure.

Location of this journey: Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands

Services provided: Itinerary planning, airline booking and tickets within Ecuador, all accommodations and meals, booking of in-country guide and vehicle driver, private vehicles in some locations, and detailed information about clothing, medical preparations, summaries of accommodations and services.

Dates of Travel – January/February 2008

January 4, 2008

As I await my transport to Tampa International Airport from my home in Safety Harbor, Florida, I feel the chill of a cold front which enveloped Florida for the previous two days, dropping the temperature to 28 degrees Fahrenheit, and my thoughts moved to where I was going – Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. This day begins a journey I never though I might make. I sit thinking about my father who found joy each month when his new copy of National Geographic Magazine would arrive in the mail. He would sit by the fireplace at our ranch house during the evenings, reading about exotic places he would never visit except in his imagination. I wish he were still alive and could go with me today to one of the last places on this earth that is untouched by mankind. I know he is with me as I begin my journey.

I arrive in Miami and meet my traveling partners from England and Canada; we enjoy a wonderful dinner and share our interest in photography.

January 5, 2009

The next morning, several of us visit South Beach for a morning shoot prior to our departure for Ecuador later in the afternoon. Not wanting to carry lots of camera gear, I grab my Canon Powershot G9. Its size is perfect for those times when one wants to keep weight to a minimum. And, most importantly, the images it produces are excellent.

I have three cameras with me on this journey: the Canon 1Ds Mark II, the Canon Rebel XTi, and the Canon Powershot G9. My reason for acquiring the Canon Powershot G9 was because of my interest in underwater photography. After a considerable amount of research, I concluded that the camera and the Canon underwater housing was the most reasonable combination in price and quality. My surprise was just how versatile the G9 would prove to be as the trip progressed.

Our flight to Quito arrives on time and we are met by our travel guide and are taken to our hotel in the Old City. Not much opportunity for photography, since the equatorial sun has set on the city. And, the bad news is that we must depart for the airport early the next morning for our flight to the Galapagos Islands.

January 6, 2008

Our travel guide handles the process of transport from our hotel, check in with the airline, and departure to the Galapagos Islands very efficiently. In fact, the process is about as efficient as I have ever experienced, testimony to the professionalism of Audley Travel, the agency responsible for our itinerary. We arrive in Baltra and are transported by a bus to a dock area where we board a panga for our first boat ride to our Yacht, the Eric that awaits us in the harbor.

Shortly thereafter we set sail for the Island of Mosquera, and make a wet landing on the shore.

We are greeted by Marine Iguanas, basking on rocks in the brilliant equatorial sun and a friendly sea lion who barks greetings as we approach.

I experience the Galapagos firsthand! Life is everywhere, and everywhere there is life, it is approachable and close. My life experience has not prepared me for what this means, to be so close to wild creatures, literally a footstep away. Even a Sally Lightfoot Crab seems glad that we are there, her brilliant colors contrasting against the dark volcanic rocks.

We return to the Eric and have time to sip a glass of wine before dinner as the yacht sets sail for the Island of Genovesa where we will make a dry landing in the morning. The cool evening marks the end of a perfect day.

January 7, 2008

We make landing on the Island of Genovesa at 0800 hours, and climb up a steep walk of lava rocks to the flat top of the island that is filled with nesting Masked Boobies.

Masked Boobies nest on the ground as opposed to Red-footed Boobies which nest in trees. The variation in nesting behaviors is an example of adaptation and survival techniques that so clearly demonstrated in the Galapagos Islands. In the first of the two shots that follow, I made use of the Canon Powershot G9 to photograph a parent and chick. Compare with the second shot taken by the Canon 1Ds Mark II.

Following the landing at Genovesa, we board the Eric and find our snorkeling gear in preparation for our first swim in the waters of the archipelago. I must admit that the idea of swimming in 68 degree Fahrenheit water was not something I was excited about, and after seeing the rough walls of the islands and the choppy surf, well, I was apprehensive. One of my companions, a doctor from Canada told me to stop acting like a wimp and get with it, so I soon find myself on the side of a panga and shortly thereafter in the cold surf swimming along side a green sea turtle! I was so close to the turtle that I had to reach out and gently turn it’s head in my direction to get this shot with the Canon Powershot G9 and the Canon underwater housing.

I have had many experiences in my lifetime, especially during my years in the US Army National Guard, but there is nothing that I have done in my past that can compare with this experience. Well, there were some small sharks below me as the turtle and I swam along the rock wall, but frankly I ignored them. Yep, I’m no longer a wimp. ☺

I have had many experiences in my lifetime, especially during my years in the US Army National Guard, but there is nothing that I have done in my past that can compare with this experience. Well, there were some small sharks below me as the turtle and I swam along the rock wall, but frankly I ignored them. Yep, I’m no longer a wimp. ☺

January 8, 2008

We make a dry landing on Fernandina Island on a gray overcast morning. Dry landing is a misnomer, because the black lava rocks upon which we land are wet and slippery until we reach dryer ground some 100 meters from the shore. Here there are hundreds of Marine Iguanas and Sally Crabs everywhere.

I go snorkeling off the coast of the Island of Isabella in the afternoon. Yes, the water was cold, but since I am no longer a wimp, I went into the water without a wet suit! Yikes what an experience that was.

January 9, 2008

This morning we make a landing on Isabela Island at Tagus Cove. Here Frigate Birds fly constantly overhead while sea lions come and go from the beach, a bull barks a warning to other males to stay away. A Red-footed Boobie pays me no mind as I walk along the shore while another flies by me.

Later in the morning, I go snorkeling from the beach and find a small group of sharks lazily swimming below me on the bottom near a large volcanic rock.

Last evening, while I slept, the Eric crossed the equator. I have tried to keep track of how many times I have crossed the equator, but frankly I lost count before the trip ended!

Today we make landing at Bartolome and make our way up an incredible climb to the top of the Island where we find a landscape beyond description. My guide said there were 372 steps to the top. My guide was lying. It is actually about 5,943 steps! Here it is what it looks like at the top. This panographic image was made from six photographs taken with the Canon 1Ds Mark II and the Canon 24-105mm f/4L lens. I’m still out of breath. It’s a wimp thing. By the way, just to the left of the boats in the harbor is Pinnacle Rock, where I will go snorkeling later in the day.

January 11, 2008

Today the Eric arrives at Puerto Ayora on the Island of Santa Cruz. We travel by bus into the highlands and visit the Tortise Reserve where we see giant tortoises in their natural environment.

After lunch we visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, which is dedicated to breeding giant tortoises for release into the wild.

Later in the day I walk through the town and do some shopping.

In the evening, our group goes ashore for a dinner party at a restaurant made famous by the book “My Father’s Island.”

January 12, 2008

Following dinner the night before, the Eric sails to Espanola Island where we make a landing at Gardner Bay. A long walk along a trail to the western tip of the island leads to a spot where a pair of Waved Albatrosses greets us.

And here, I also have the chance to photograph the Red-billed Tropic Bird, one of the most beautiful creatures I encounter during my journey.

In the afternoon we visit Punta Suarez, where I photograph a sea lion as she nurses her pup that is almost as large as her, while two marine iguanas laze in the sun. I also have the chance to do some shopping in the small city while enjoying the wonderful climate that only the Galapagos can provide.

My last day on the Eric ends as we sail around Kicker Island, one of the most beautiful places in the Galapagos Islands.

It is an emotional time for me, because the experience of seeing the interaction of life in the Galapagos is so vivid: adaptation, collaboration, and change, mark the lessons here. I am touched by the beauty of what nature has created here over millions of years, even in the smallest of things. In places I first thought could not harbor life, life abounds in great variety, and here more than anyplace I have visited in my journeys, one can see life closely, indeed, one can reach out and touch life through the experience. And the experience has changed me in a fundamental way. I will not be able to return to my world as the same man who ventured here just a few days before. I have lived Charles Darwin’s admonition: “A man who dares to waste one hour of time has not discovered the value of life.”

My journey continues tomorrow and I think of the lessons the journey still holds for me in the days ahead.

January 13, 2008

I say goodbye to the crew of the Eric, many of whom have become friends. I promise the ship’s engineer that I will send him a photograph of Kicker Rock, a place he wants to share with his family through my photography. I cannot say enough positive things about the sail of the Eric, the crew were professional in every respect. Three boats make up the fleet, the Eric, the Flamingo, and the Letty, all identical. Here is a shot of the Flamingo.

As the captain of the Eric explained to me, having three boats traveling together provides both safety and convenience, especially if something breaks down on any of the boats. Given the vast distances we traveled during this journey, having another boat close by was a comfort.

Later in this review, I will provide insight into the experiences I had with facilities and travel accommodations during my journey. The crew of the Eric, and its organization, will get my highest rating.

From anchorage at Baltra, I board a panga and return to shore where I catch a bus for the Baltra airport, there to meet my guide and driver for a 45-minute drive across Santa Cruz Island to Puerto Ayora, and there to board another panga for a short ride to a dock leading to Finch Bay Resort, where I will spend the next three nights.

My journey in the Galapagos has not ended, for I anticipate additional landings at nearby Islands from the yacht owned by the hotel.

During the evening hours, I sit by the large swimming pool at the hotel and enjoy watching a great blue heron stop by for a drink of water as I sip an excellent wine from Chile. It has been good just to stop for a short while and reflect about my experiences thus far. Nearby, I do find an iguana posing for me in the evening light.

At dinner I experience what a world-class chef can do. I like to eat, and dinner at the Finch Bay Resort was simply the best meal I have ever had at any restaurant in the world. Did I say that the food was outstanding? The food was outstanding!

January 14, 2008

Today I board the hotel yacht for an excursion to North Seymour Island. The yacht is perfect for the trip and on board is an array of food and spirits one would only expect to find in a world-class hotel. I remember vividly how the chef had prepared the food presentation, with a boobie carved out of fresh fruit!

We make landing at the island, where we find a large colony of blue-footed boobies nesting. Courtship abounds as males go through a dance in the hopes of convincing females to mate.

Male frigate birds display their red throats, also hoping to attract a mate.

We end our exploration of the island as a boobie stands watch on a rock.

I have the chance to go snorkeling off the coast of the island later that morning in very cold and very rough water. Despite my concerns the swim is a fantastic experience as I work my way along a rock cliff in the swirling surf.

During dinner at the Finch Bay Resort, I again experience a world-class meal of huge shrimp and Ecuadorian foods. What a delight. It is the end of a perfect day in paradise.

January 15, 2008

I awake on my last day in the Galapagos Islands with mixed emotions. Thus far, my journey has been filled with an amazing array of wonderful light; departing this special place will not be easy. I could spend the rest of my days here and never begin to appreciate just how special this place is.

During the morning we explore Plaza Island, where I find an old land iguana, bright yellow in the morning sun, who seems to be telling me that there is beauty even among old ones who find warmth among the rocks. And there too I find a red-billed tropical bird that has made her nest in a burrow in the cliffs. She looks at me with disinterest, knowing that she will remain in paradise as I fly away tomorrow.

January 16, 2008

This morning I have time to explore the city of Puerto Ayora. A vibrant city, the waterfront area is busy with water taxis and small barges offloading supplies for the ships that stop by the port to stock up on necessities.

I depart the Finch Bay Resort and take a panga to the dock area and then a bus to the Baltra Airport. I am still amazed at how well the tour operators manage to move so many people so efficiently. Soon I am onboard the aircraft and we take off for Quito, where I will begin my next phase in this journey.

I am met at Quito by my guide and driver who will be with me for the next few days. They transport me to the Hotel Patio Andaluz. The hotel is very attractive with rich furnishings and an open courtyard that is three-stories high. A nice bar is located in the basement area of the courtyard and it is filled with plants all in perfect condition, surviving well under the transparent roof that covers the courtyard. I enjoy the entertainment provided by the hotel during dinner, two local musicians who are both outstanding. With pan pipes, guitars, and their voices, I am immediately brought into the culture of Ecuador. The hotel does have issues, and I will provide a detailed review at the end of this blog about the facility and all others that I encountered while in Ecuador. Let’s just say that I would not recommend this hotel.

January 17, 2008

My driver and guide arrive early as we have a long drive to Bellavista and the Cloud Forest. On our way, we cross the equator as we head north across and incredible landscape shaped by the volcanoes that have formed Ecuador.

We arrive at Bellavista in the late morning in rain. And it rains and rains and rains during the next 24 hours. Non-stop. And, after the pleasant climate of the Galapagos, I am transfixed from paradise to dealing with a cold damp world where I can never get warm.

Bellavista is touted as a bird watcher’s paradise; that is, if one likes walking in rubber boots around in the rain on slippery trails that crisscross the landscape.

As to the facility. Well, I compare Bellavista to a run-down Boy Scout camp that was last repaired a decade ago. In other words, it was the pits. Walls made of bamboo separate rooms from one another, and they are thin, I could easily listen in to a conversation of a couple in the adjoining room. There is no heat except from a very small electric heater, hot water comes and goes, and don’t expect the electricity to be on all the time. One basically must hunker down underneath a heavy blanket for the night while searching frantically for the thermal underwear one should have packed for the trip. I won’t discuss the toilet, it was clean, but I fail to understand why I must place used toilet tissue in a trashcan provided. Seems the pipes are small. I spent 34 years and 35 days in the Army National Guard, I have stayed in some pretty miserable places in my life, including a tent camp in the jungles of Panama. My accommodations there were far better than what I experienced at Bellavista. And to make matters worse, the food was terrible. The only good thing I can say about the place was that they had bottles of wine available. I won’t discuss the coffee.

Despite all this, I did manage to get two good shots of humming birds while there. Course, I could have easily done the same thing in my backyard.

January 18, 2008

The morning brings more rain and I sit just outside my miserable room having a cigarette and something called coffee while I await my guide and driver. I do find time to joke with my fellow companions about their experiences while at Bellavista. There is solace in misery.

It is with great joy when the van arrives and we climb in to get warm from the heater in the vehicle. Little things matter.

We arrive at The Hacienda Pinsaqui, what a joy! Filled with history, the hacienda is a magnificent example of the large estates that once covered Ecuador. The grounds are beautiful with many wonderful walkways and numerous buildings all linked together forming a small city. I sit by a fire and sip a glass of wine and admire the art, the photographs, and the antique furnishings that adorn the main house. What a delight for the eyes.

My room is more like a suite, with a separate room for sitting, and a lovely back porch overlooking a small garden. Inside my rooms there is a fireplace and lots of wet wood that requires my best fire-starting skills to get going well before dinner. And dinner is fantastic.

January 19, 2008

This morning I visit the market at Otavalo. I am awestruck by color. Color everywhere. I first noticed the subtle colors of Ecuador upon arrival in Quito. There the city is a warm brown with subtle tones that mark the use of stucco and stone. The market, however, was bold and delightful, filled with rich bright colors both in the products and in the dress of the people of Ecuador. If I remember anything about this journey it will be the colors I saw everywhere.

January 20, 2008

This morning we stop at a marker that delineates the equator. Seems cool to me to be able to jump back and forth between the northern and southern hemispheres. I bet I did it at least a 100 times.

From here we move on from Otavalo to Quito and spend a few hours touring the City of Quito. The old city is a blend of the old and the modern, its history rich with both color and cultural varieties. The main square was bustling with people.

In the late evening I arrive at the Villa Colonna in Quito. WOW! I can’t describe how wonderful this small hotel, located in the heart of the old city is. Simply the best hotel I have encountered in all my travels! The rooftop vista of the city was stunning. Unfortunate for me, I had little time to enjoy the hotel, for again the following morning I had to get up very early to continue my journey. I missed breakfast, but the coffee was simply superb.

January 21, 2008

I depart Quito for Riobamba to board the Chiva Express, a unique cross between a large bus and a train.

For the next few hours we explore Ecuador by rail arriving late in the afternoon at our hotel.

January 22, 2008

We again board the Chiva Express and now begin to climb into the high country of Ecuador at one point switching back and forth on rails to traverse the Devil’s Nose.” Unfortunately the weather is not cooperating and we are unable to see the tops of several volcanoes along our route.

We do stop by a wonderful hacienda for lunch and I have a chance to ride a horse, something I have not done in many years. A caballero showed me how to use a leather lasso.

We stop by Ingapirca and visit the ruins of an Inca temple, one of the few Inca ruins in Ecuador.

We arrive late at the colonial town of Cuenca, and check into the Mansion Alcazar, perhaps the most delightful hotel I will visit on my journey. Suffice it to say that the staff are wonderful hosts and real people, the food fantastic, the atmosphere awesome, the accommodations large and superb, and the decorations warm and delightful, making the whole experience the best yet on my journey. I shall not forget Manuel, the barkeeper who tried very much to teach me Spanish phrases and words. What a delightful person he is. He is typical of the people I met while in Ecuador, all friendly and all willing to explain as much as possible about their country.

January 23, 2008

Today I have the time to explore Cuenca. One of the most delightful experiences was to visit a local factory where Panama Hats are made by hand. The term “Panama Hat” grew out of the time when the hats were worn by workers building the Panama Canal. The hats are not made in Panama, but in Ecuador, something I really did not know until this trip.

I shall remember sitting in a lovely square at the heart of the city listening to classical music being broadcast from speakers throughout the park. What a wonderful delight it was just to sit there in this wonderful old city, enjoying the fabulous climate, and watching hundreds of Ecuadorian people go about their daily lives.

January 24, 2008

This morning, I explore Cuenca and in the afternoon catch a late flight back to Quito. I arrive again at the Villa Colonna where I will spend my last night in Ecuador.

January 25, 2008

Today I fly to Florida and return home. My journey has come to an end. I will long remember Ecuador and its wonderful people, I hope someday to return.

The following are my opinions regarding hotels, and yacht excursions while traveling in Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. I have also provided my best advice about camera equipment and experiences with photography while on this trip.

Safety

It is very safe to travel in Ecuador. At no time during my journey did I feel unsafe. It is wise to think about what you are carrying, I used a travel vest and kept my passport and credit cards with me at all times. Streets in the major cities are free of crime, at least violent crime, my guides did warn me about pick-pockets but at no time during my visit was there a time when I felt like my safety was in jeopardy. Suffice it to say that I felt safer in Quito at 10:00 PM while returned from dinner via foot, than I would ever feel in downtown Tampa, Florida, at the same hour. All hotels offer safes for locking up valuables. I must say, all in all, I felt perfectly comfortable during my journey in Ecuador. It is a safe country.

Camera Equipment

Travel light if you can. You will experience cramped airlines, cramped boats, and long walks. A good backpack for carrying your equipment is essential. As for lenses, a good zoom lens that can reach out to 300 or 400mm is very useful. Don’t forget too to bring a good wide angle or zoom lens for landscapes and street photography. A monopod or tripod is both useful and sometimes necessary.

Yes you will get close to wildlife while in the Galapagos Islands. Very close indeed. But too you will be confined to walkways and often there will be heavy brush or something that blocks the shot you are after. This is why a telephoto is often necessary.

Light is harsh, after all the Galapagos Islands are located on the equator. Getting good exposures is tough, a trade off between very bright highlights and shadows. An exposure nightmare.

You will have ample opportunities for street photography while in Ecuador, but be aware that photographing people is problematic. Guides will tell you what is and what is not proper there. It is best to ask permission if you can. Most people are quite willing to allow you to photograph them if you ask. Photography in Catholic Churches is prohibited in Ecuador, no doubt due to annoying use of flash during services. I wanted to photograph the inside of several cathedrals and was greatly disappointed that I could not. But, I fully understand the policy, having witnessed too many photographers who shoot away with flash blaring, often during religious celebrations. The rule of thumb is to be courteous.

Recharging batteries is no an issue in the Galapagos for those from the USA as Ecuador uses the same electrical system, it will be an issue if you are from the United Kingdom or some other country that may require that you have the proper adapters.

While in the Galapagos Islands, you will interact with salt water constantly. I wish I had bought a good water-proof backpack prior to the trip. While I did not get my equipment wet, a traveling companion from my group did get doused once while trying to board a small boat from a shoreline. Salt water and digital cameras don’t mix well.

My experience with underwater photography was mixed. I had high hopes for the Canon G9 and the Canon underwater housing. Both were difficult to use while snorkeling. One reason is the inability to get where you need to be for shots. And, the Canon housing is nearly impossible to use effectively with snorkeling gear, this is because you view what you are shooting through the LCD screen and most of the time you are looking down not parallel with the subject. The camera works great with scuba gear, but fails to be effective while snorkeling. Lighting conditions are also problematic, as most underwater shots will be taken along rocky coastlines without direct sunlight lighting the areas. The Canon underwater housing is a beast to pack, it is large and cumbersome. I would have been better off with a camera designed especially for underwater photography.

In the meantime, one member of my group got some really great shots using an underwater point and shoot camera, simply because he could look through the viewfinder!

Make sure to bring plenty of digital storage. I carried an 80GB device and filled over 50GBs of storage during the three week period. And, frankly, I did not shoot enough.

In addition to your DSLR, take along a good point and shoot camera for those times you just want to walk around a city without a lot of heavy gear on your back. I highly recommend the Canon Powershot G9. It is a truly remarkable camera.

Assessment of Travel Planning and Facilities

On a Scale of 1 to 5:

Travel Agencies used in Ecuador, arranged through Audley Travel:

Metropolitan Touring, Ecuador

Professionalism of staff: 5
Execution of the trip: 5
Responsiveness to queries: 5

———-

Hotels:

Patio Andaluz, Quito

Accommodations: 2 (noise, no heat, room was clean and well appointed)
Professionalism of staff: 2 (they were all robots, too eager to please, no interaction with guests)
Building: 5 (lovely restored facility with wonderful furnishings)
Food: -1 (terrible, I got sick after the second stay at the hotel)
Coffee: 1 (did I say Nescafe?)
Recommendation: Don’t stay here under any circumstances!

—–

Finch Bay Resort, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos

Accommodations: 5 (ambiance, setting, openness of areas, quiet)
Professionalism of staff: 5 (interacted with guests, friendly, helpful, accommodating)
Building: 5 (modern with wonderful open plan)
Food: 5+ (world-class chef, superb presentation, very high quality, wonderful selection)
Coffee: 2 (measured by the Starbucks standard)
Recommendation: Stay here if you can, what a delightful resort, the best of the best!

—–

Bellavisata Cloud Forest Reserve

Accommodations: -1 (shabby construction, no privacy, walls as thin as paper, cold, damp, toilets require you to place used tissues in trash can because the plumbing won’t handle it!)
Professionalism of staff: 1 (no interaction, would respond when demands were made)
Food: 1 (terrible food, kitchen detached from dining area, food carried from one building to another in the rain!)
Coffee: 1 (worst coffee I had on my journey)
Recommendation: Don’t stay here under any circumstances, that is, unless you like to walk around in the rain on slippery mud trails in rubber boots looking for exotic birds.

—–

Hacienda Pinsaqui, Otavalo

Accommodations: 4 (wonderful old buildings with individual fireplaces in very large suites, no other heat though, otherwise a 5)
Professionalism of staff: 5 (interacted with guests, friendly, helpful, accommodating)
Building: 5 (the hacienda has a rich and very long history, incredible antiques furnish the interior rooms, fine art everywhere, magnificent grounds and walks, wonderful surroundings filled with lush plants and flowers)
Food: 4 (excellent chef with a good variety of selections)
Coffee: 2 (measured by the Starbucks standard)
Recommendation: Stay here if you can, and stay for a while, there is much to explore and lots to do.

—–

Villa Colonna, Quito

Accommodations: 5 (a world class boutique hotel)
Professionalism of staff; 5 (great interaction, friendly, helpful, accommodating)
Building: 5 (completely restored building with wonderful furnishings embellished with excellent local art work, superb layout of the spacious guest areas, the rooftop a delight in the evenings)
Food: Cannot rate, did not have time to eat here.
Coffee: 5 (measured by the Starbucks standard)
Recommendation: Stay here if you can, but make your reservations early, they are booked for the next 12 months and I fully understand why, it is the best hotel in Ecuador!

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Hosteria Abraspungu, Riobamba

Accommodations: 4 (large rooms, quiet, well appointed)
Professionalism of staff: 3 (not much interaction)
Building: 4 (modern facility with excellent furnishings)
Food: 3 (good food, served promptly)
Coffee: 2 (measured by the Starbucks standard)
Recommendation: Stay here, it is probably the best hotel in the Riobamba area.

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Mansion Alcazar, Cuenca

Accommodations: 5 (Very large suite, quiet, well appointed, decorated with antiques and superb furnishings)
Professionalism of staff: 5 (very friendly staff that interacted immediately, went out of their way to be accommodating and helpful, cheerful and attentive to one’s every need)
Building: 5 (superb colonial structure, well maintained with beautiful furnishings, delightful private garden at the rear of the hotel with lush plants, flowers, and hummingbirds)
Food: 4 (excellent food with a good selection)
Coffee: 2 (measured by the Starbucks standard)
Recommendation: Stay here if you can, an outstanding hotel located in the heart of Cuenca, a delight by any standard.

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Yacht and Cruise:

M/Y Eric/Flamingo/Letty, Galapagos

Accommodations: 4 (it’s a boat, rooms are small)
Professionalism of staff: 5 (outstanding interaction with guests, always helpful, provided detailed information about everything, accommodating to an extreme)
Boat: 5 (just the right size, 10 cabins, 20 guests, larger would have been too much, smaller too small, in excellent condition with plenty of safety equipment on board)
Food: 4 (excellent food throughout the entire voyage)
Coffee: 3 (measured by the Starbucks standard)
Recommendation: Book a tour with this company, it is outstanding!

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PTR Rating of Audley Travel:

* $700 per day per person plus airfare from Tampa to Quito and tips. (In 2008 US Dollar Values)
* Overall rating, five stars *****
* Staff support and assistance, five stars *****
* Environmental concerns and practices, five stars *****
* Family friendly, five stars *****
* Safety and medical support, four stars *****
* Professionalism and Ethics, five stars *****
* Accommodations, four stars **** (Two bad experiences, The Cloud Forest and Patio Andaluz, Quito, see notes above. On arrival at Finch Bay Resort, the resort had no notice of my arrival, which was soon fixed by the resort’s staff. Either Audley Travel, or its in-country staff, failed to make the reservation and arrange for vouchers to accompany me. The staff at the Finch Bay Hotel were exceedingly professional in the manner in which all of this was solved. The resort is rated at five ***** stars. Audley Travel gets a one star * from me for its execution of the travel plan at this resort.)

PTR Rating is five stars, but just barely, two bad experiences with accommodations and one failure to make reservations.

A PTR Review of Wildshots (now Northshots), Autumn Gold

Dedicated, organised, group photographic holiday.

Location: Glenfeshie, Cairngorms, Scotland

Accommodation

Beautifully converted steading, with double and twin rooms having en-suite facilities and single rooms sharing a bathroom between two. Ready access to electricity in the rooms for charging batteries.

Price: £545

A typical day

Weather dependent: so up early for the light and back for breakfast, or a lie in.

Then a full day out, at various locations, staying out to capture the last light of the day if it looked like there would be any. Back to the steading in time for dinner, followed by get-together to discuss the day, the plans for the following day and a review of images.

Why Go?

Stunning scenery
Company of like-minded people
Introduction to an unfamiliar area
Tuition
New ideas
All meals included

What to take

Camera, memory/film, macro, wide-angle and telephoto lenses, tripod, batteries and chargers

Warm clothing, waterproof jacket and trousers, wellies, walking boots.

Highlights

This was the first dedicated photo trip I had taken (2004) and was somewhat apprehensive as my photographic skills were limited at that time. I need not have worried, the skills of the group were varied and the group leaders: Peter Cairns and John McPherson were two of the most encouraging and entertaining people you could have come across. Their agenda was to help you with your photography and not concentrate on capturing their own images, a fault that I’ve witnessed on other trips.

The company of the other visitors was delightful with some excellent banter.

The rooms and communal areas were clean, warm and very comfortable, with the two-tiered lounge being a fantastic place to congregate and share ideas and images at the end of the day.

The home cooked meals were superb with a cook ready to accommodate alternative dietary needs. Very welcome too was a plentiful supply of hot drinks and soup that came along with us on our trips.

Though a dedicated landscape holiday, there was plenty of time to indulge in some macro work; the fungi at that time of year were particularly plentiful and varied. A real bonus were the feeding stations set up in the grounds and my first opportunity of getting close enough to a red squirrel to photograph it.

Lowlights

The weather! The group leaders acknowledged that this was the worst weather they’d had for the ‘Autumn Gold‘ trip. Despite that it was a thoroughly enjoyable week and they had a few alternatives up their sleeves for when the weather was truly awful.

Leaving, especially when the day after leaving the conditions turned spectacular.

Would I go again?

I would love to, but dates have not coincided with my time off work.

I would also be very keen to join one of their wildlife or overseas tours; they are very popular and book up quickly.

Wildshots has a very loyal customer base with clients returning time and time again, which is perhaps the only recommendation it needs.

(perhaps 5 star plus if the weather were guaranteed)

By Neil Burton

Link To His Website

Big cat diary

The morning safari sees us up at 5.30 and picked up from our hotel at 6.15. After another pick up at an out of town hotel we enter the park where we pull trail number 3 out of the hat (see ‘How the park works’ below). Our guide declares that this is the best trail of all, mainly as it encompasses the three Rathambore lakes.

We are all excited and expectant as we enter the park proper, before us lies the ruins of old Maharajah Hunting lodges, calm mist covers the  water and we hear the shrill cries of peacocks. I recognise immediately the scenes I remember from my childhood of nature documentaries, but am surprised at the arid dry-season vegetation. Above us Ranthambore Fort glows in the early light but I am reluctant to change lenses as the jeep is stirring up clouds of dust.

Along the lakes we spot crocodiles, storks, spoonbills, stilts, spotted deer, sambar deer, nilgai and small antelope. We stop briefly at the end of the third lake and watch a heron fishing, a kingfisher flitting around and waders sifting through the mud for food. I would love to get closer but no one can leave the jeep, nor can the jeep stray too far from the trail.

On our way back towards the exit a shape is spotted through the trees, a caracal, but we get barely a glimpse before it merges back into the bush. All too soon we are back at the main gates watching langur monkeys beg food from uneducated tourists. Then it is back to the lodge for a long awaited breakfast.

Our evening safari would be far different, the Canter bus picks us up at 3.30 and then continues to pick up people for the next thirty minutes or so. The seats are so close together I cannot sit straight and my knees rub on rivets down the seat back.

We have drawn trail number 5 which our guide tells us is great, I think they have a standard script here, as yesterday a tiger was spotted. After an hour we have seen very little, there are no waterholes as yet and we are all covered in a thick layer of dust. We stop briefly for the guide to explain the medicinal properties of a tree and while he is talking a nearby deer gives a shrill warning cry. The guide stops suddenly and listens intently, he silences the bus and tells us we must wait, something is near.

After a few minutes of waiting and listening to ever increasing calls, in which time another canter and two jeeps have arrived, a tiger finally appears through the bush. She heads towards us then veers off to the left. But the undergrowth is making a clear shot impossible not to mention the bouncing movement of the canter. Eventually we get a good clear view after the drivers decided to move around and play musical safari vehicles.

For ten minutes we watch transfixed as a real live wild tiger walks in front of us and then disappears back into the bush. The rest of the drive is uneventful and we are soon back at the lodge, but it doesn’t matter, I have seen what I came here for.

Next morning we are picked up promptly by our Canter and then off once more for the other pick-ups. We choose trail 2 and are, of course, told we have a good chance of a tiger.

But we spend the morning looking at spotted deer, sambar and a few birds gathered around a small water hole.

Our evening safari is, to the relief of my knees, a jeep. We share the jeep with four other people who had not yet been into the park. One of them pulls trail number 2 from the hat and after some short discussion we try to change trails. But after twenty five minutes of trying our guide tells us it is not possible. So off we go without high hopes and running late to boot.

At the turn off for trail 2 we are stopped by another jeep who informs us there is a tiger right at the start of trail 3, sleeping a long way off in a ruined building near the lake. After some discussion, in which it is made clear the driver faces a ban of one month if he is caught, it is decided by the others we should see this tiger. So into trail 3 we ride as, it would seem, do half of the jeeps and canters in the park.

It is  Armageddon, everyone trying to spot the tiger, jeeps pushing in front of canters and vice versa. Once we have stopped we see the tiger walking through long reeds towards the waters edge. The guide shouts something and suddenly every jeep and canter is reversing back. We watch the tiger sit by the water for a while but even with the tele-converter and 100-400 I can not get a decent shot. When a white rangers jeep turns up we head promptly for trail 2.

Trail 2 is just as dry and unremarkable as we remember it from the morning drive. Eventually we stop to shoot some spotted deer standing in the sun by a dry river bed. The driver is just about to leave when the shrill warning call of a sambar rings out. All the deer stand stock still and our guide hushes us, like he needs to! The warning cries become more agitated and suddenly the deer bolt, in all directions, into the trees and across the dirt track. I can speak for everyone now, all our hearts are in our mouths as we wait. Unfortunately the silence is broken by the arrival of other jeeps and of course a canter full of squawking Indian school children.

Suddenly a tiger runs into view, the final deer bolts and the tiger stops, unwilling to give chase. All is silent as the tiger approaches, right up until one of the school kids jumps out of the canter and makes towards the tiger, camera in hand. Swift verbal intervention from the driver soon stops the kid in his tracks but anyway the tiger shows no interest. Shame, could have been a newsworthy shot!

The tiger strolls in front of us, through bush and grass, then sets off up the dry river bed and is soon invisible. Just as suddenly as one disappears another tiger trots into view from the left, has a quick spray and moves unhurriedly towards us. The tiger approaches through long grass and has a lay down right in front of the jeep. Despite the noise of children, fake shutter sounds and beeping mobiles I am lost in a world of my own.

Eventually the tiger gets bored and follows the direction of the first, who is now studying us from a distance. Engines are started and jeeps begin to move when I spot movement through the trees. It is probably a deer which was hiding says the guide, but I was sure I saw stripes. As the jeep began to move I put my hand on the drivers shoulder to slow him, that’s when the third tiger appears.

Everything stops again, then jeeps vie for a better position but we are always in the right place as we had not moved to begin with. This tiger has a quick spray and then heads off towards its siblings. No vehicle can follow them but we all drive up the road in their direction, from the hill we can look down upon the forest. Eventually we spot a tiger through a gap in the trees, lazing in a waterhole but its a long way off and we all presume it was one of the three.

Our guide says they are about 6 to 8 months old and siblings. Me, ever the Discovery Channel fan, cannot believe this they are just too big, had to be over 12 months. But  I wonder where was the mother of these guys, since they were still too young to be weaned.

The guide never clicked, or if he did he didn’t say it. But once I got back and checked my shots I could clearly see that the final tiger was bigger, had distinct markings and a scar. That was the mother. Tiger number six. Just our luck to be twenty five minutes late. Ranthambore is a lottery, but well worth a visit if you feel lucky!

What to photograph?

It is said that between 75% and 95% off all the photographs ever taken of a tiger in the wild have been taken in Ranthambore. So the chance of a sighting is relatively high in comparison with other National Parks, but it is not guaranteed. It is worth preparing yourself for the worst, quite a few people we met had failed to see a tiger after two or three drives, one particular couple had failed to see a tiger after thirteen outings!

Fear not however, the park is full of a diverse range of fauna which includes caracal (puma), chittal (spotted deer), nilgai (very large antelope), black buck and sambar deer (a favourite of the tigers). Other possible, although very rare, wildlife includes leopards, sloth bears and wild boars. The park is also rich in birdlife and home to some 400 resident and migrant species.

Ranthambore Fort, which sits overlooking the park, is also worth a few hours visit and entrance is free.

Where to stay

There are enough places in Sawai Madhopor to keep any level of traveller happy. From backpack guest houses to the highly luxurious Vanyavilas, everyone here is catered for and since jeeps are regulated by the park there is no distinction when it comes to the safari itself. We stayed in the Sawai Madhopur Lodge which lies somewhere in the middle price category. Rooms were excellent, service was good and the buffet meals were nice.

How the park works

Ranthambore limits the number of visitors to the park and therefore it is important to book your place on a jeep well in advance. Bookings can often be made through your hotel, for a small fee or online at: http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in/make_your_trip/Ranthmbor/seat-availability.jsp

Some of the top hotels do I believe, although it is not written, have their own vehicles (we often came across a jeep with only two passengers).

Should you not manage a jeep booking, 20 seat Canter buses are almost always available and bookable a day in advance, either at the park gates or through the hotel or on the above website.

I would recommend the jeeps over the the Canters for the simple reason of comfort, but they are also quieter and more maneuverable.

Would I go again? Absolutely.

Low points? The guides are lacking in comparison with those I have encountered in Africa but India is still developing.