Scotland – The Bass Rock

By Bill

The Bass Rock, or simply “The Bass,” is an island in the outer part of the Firth of Forth in the east of Scotland, approximately one mile off North Berwick.  It is 107 meters (351 ft) at its highest point. The island plays host to more than 150,000 Gannets and is the largest single rock gannetry in the world, described famously by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the wildlife wonders of the world.” (Excerpts from Wikipedia)

When I arrived at Dunbar, Scotland, on June 16, 2009, I was filled with excitement about visiting The Bass Rock.  A good friend, David Stevenson, who lives in Edinburgh, had written about his experience visiting the island in a previous post. The photographs from his trip were simply stunning.  My dear friend and PTR colleague, Dr. Melanie M, had arranged for the trip with the Scottish Seabird Centre, and she joined me in the journey.  We were both doubtful that we would make a landing, since only about one in three trips result in visitors getting on the island due to the effects of tides and weather.  So, we were hopeful, but knew that the chances were slim that we would actually land.

Upon arriving at the Harbor at Dunbar, I looked around to find our boat, much to my surprise what I saw was less than what I had expected, although the Seabird Centre had advised that we would be transported in a “working lobster boat.”  Yep, it was a working boat for sure!

Island Transport

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But then, the thought occurred to me that the gentlemen who operate such boats are veterans of the sea, and their experience and knowledge would prove to be essential as we landed on the island.  I respect their skills immensely, as the waters of the North Sea are filled with rocky crags, swift currents, and are subject to extreme changes brought about by weather.  I was in good hands.

The morning air was chilly as we departed the harbor.  Our little boat soon found the roll of the waves favorable as we tossed gently toward the island, about one-hour away.

I had been advised that the crew would be “chumming” at some point in our trip.  “Chumming” is about tossing small pieces of fish into the water along side the boat, the result is somewhat amazing as gulls and gannets soon appear in mass.  I soon found myself handing on for dear life with my Canon EOS 5D Mark II and wide-angle lens, trying to stop the action that was occurring around me.

Click on photograph for a larger version.

Click on photograph for a larger version.

Melanie did a much better job of capturing the “chumming” action than I.  You can see her fabulous capture at Ephotozine, which earned a “highly commended” award from its editors.

The landing on the island was interesting to say the least.  I am a big guy, about 6′2″ and weigh way too much, about 215 pounds, and I am clumsy.  So, here I am bobbing up and down on the side of the boat, trying to find the courage to step off onto a wet concrete staircase, with 20 pounds of camera gear on my back.  Thank goodness for our guide from the Seabird Centre, who lent a strong hand to get me off the boat!

We worked our way up a long series of stairs to get to an area marked out for us by our guide.  We were required to stay within a good sized area, but could not venture out of the markings because of concerns for the birds and nests.  The island is quite steep and most of the time it was difficult to find level ground.  Along our way up the stairs we passed by the lighthouse on the island.

To put it mildly, I was absolutely stunned by the activity of the birds, tens of thousands of them!  I soon got out my Canon EOS 5D Mark II and my Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO lens and started firing away.  And, time and again, I would find shot after shot after shot filling my viewfinder.  And, I soon mounted my Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6L lens as it was much easier to maneuver for the fast action in front of me.

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Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO

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Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO

I have done bird photography for many years, but I must state categorically that I have never experienced anything like my day at The Bass Rock.  It is a photographer’s dream come true.  An absolutely fabulous experience that challenges one to do one’s best.  This shot “Behold,” done with the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO is one of my favorites.

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And I like this one, “Head On,” because a head on shot is one of the toughest to get of a bird in flight.

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There were ample opportunities to capture behavior shots as well, as in this one where the male held the females beak in what appeared to me to be a very painful way.  I have read that this is a courting behavior, one which is very aggressive.

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And in this shot, showing the classic pose that Gannets are noted for as part of their mating ritual.

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I won’t bore you with many more shots, you can view my Gannet gallery as I add additional photographs in the future.  Let me just say that I have hundreds of photographs to process and I may never get through all of them.

During my journey to The Bass Rock, what I learned was that my recent choices in camera and lenses paid off.  I am totally in awe of the Canon EOS 5D Mark II and when coupled with either the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO or the Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO, it produces outstanding images of the finest quality.  I could not be more estatic.

For those of you interested, the cost for the six-hour (no restroom) trip is about $150 per person.  Plan on taking along a good water proof jacket and pants, a hat (yep, you will get dumped on), and some good boots or shoes that can grip slippery surfaces well.  Arrangements for the trip must be made with the Seabird Centre, private trips are possible but will cost considerably more.  One cannot find a better bargain for a truly unique and exciting travel adventure.

I end my story of the journey with some additional shots, and my special thanks to Dr. Melanie M for taking the time to make the arrangements for the journey.  It was perhaps the best photographic experience of my life.

Click on photograph for a larger version.

Click on photograph for a larger version.

Click on photograph for a larger version.