By Dave Taylor
Copyright © 2008 Dave Taylor, All Rights Reserved, www.sixtyonenorth.com
The Denali Highway was opened to travelers in 1957 as the road to Mount McKinley National Park. In 1971 the George Parks Highway opened, allowing more direct access from Anchorage & Fairbanks to the renamed Denali National Park and Preserve. So, since 1971, the Denali Highway has become “the road less traveled”. The Highway is 135 miles long, with only the easternmost 21.3 miles and the westernmost 2.6 miles being paved. The remaining 111 miles is a poorly maintained and sometimes rough gravel road. It can be a bumpy ride with washboard sections and frequent pot holes. But before you pass off the idea of this road-trip, consider the rewards.
Nearly unlimited access.
This is not Denali National Park. You are not required to ride a bus to see the sights, and you can stop anytime you like to photograph to your hearts content. There are no park fees, and no limitations on how long you can stay in most areas. The sights are every bit as stunning as the more popular views in the National Park to the west. There are numerous turnouts and unique road-side camping sites all along the road, along with a nearly infinite amount of backcountry sites to choose from when setting up your tent.
Unspoiled wilderness.
Other than the unpaved Denali Highway, and just a few scattered buildings, this is pure & accessible wilderness. You’ll pass through several distinct ecological zones. From scenic alpine passes, to taiga forests, and even open tundra – this is the truest form of the journey being the destination. Almost the entire length of the road will give you stunning scenery. Mountains dominate the skyline. Some will be so close that you’ll need a sunroof to see their peaks. In the late summer and early fall, the tundra literally comes alive with color. Greens, reds, golds… and berries everywhere. Blueberries, cranberries, and bearberries. Also, the intricately shaped and bleached caribou moss. Close inspection reveals what gave this low-lying lichen its name, each frond is shaped like intertwined antlers.
The wildlife.
You can see the same wildlife that you can see in Denali National Park all along this scenic drive. There are grizzly bear, caribou, moose, wolves, red fox, and thousands of birds. In fact, depending on the time of the year, this is a birders paradise. One note however, some wildlife are hunted here (unlike those in Denali National Park), so you are less likely to have the close encounters that come with the aforementioned National Park to the west. That said, you can still see wildlife in grand scale here. The Nelchina caribou herd, approximately 37,000 strong can be spotted crossing open tundra and within the taiga forests. That’s a lot of “boo”!
The history.
There are several old mines in the area where early settlers set up camp in search of gold. Further back in time, the area around the Tangle Lakes Archaeological District is where over 500 sites have been discovered, linking ancient people to this region for 10,000 years or more. It is a true national treasure. Please leave any artifacts where you find them, for others to enjoy and be studied.
Logistics.
I’d recommend renting a truck and cab-over camper, a small Winnebago, or an SUV and bringing your camping gear. There are few lodges to stay at, and they are primarily near the eastern & western ends of the road. Camping along this drive will allow you a more intimate view of this immense landscape. You will also be able to scout your next location and wait for prime light. This area can be quite buggy in the summer and fall, so dress accordingly. Also be cautious with some bug “dope” brands that contain DEET – it can melt through the plastic on cameras and other equipment.
Gracious House – MP 82.
Rooms for rent, simple auto service, bar, and cafe. Try their pies!
Denali Highway Cabins – MP 0 (Paxson).
Jenny and Audie Bakewell own and operate this fantastic location, and each cabin is beautifully crafted near the Gulkana River. Their two Alaskan Malamutes, Aurora and Borealis, are very friendly and relaxed. They may even join you on one of their evening raft floats down the Gulkana. This is a gentle river that wildlife is often drawn to; bears, caribou, moose, and many species of bird.
The most stunning views will be those out of your tent fly, or the windows of your camper. There are so many places to camp for the night (or even the week) that you may, quite literally, have an entire valley to yourself.
It is a good idea to top off your gas tank at either end of the road. Typically the Cantwell side has slightly lower gas prices. Also, if you have the option to carry extra gas in plastic gas jugs, this will enable you to remain flexible in your travels, going back and forth between locations without worrying about your fuel gauge. Before setting out, make sure you have a working spare, along with the tools required for changing a flat tire. I’ve made this trip several times now, and I’ve never seen a vehicle on the side of the road with automotive problems, but it is a definite possibility. Channel your inner Boy Scout and “be prepared”!
Remember where you are, this is Alaska – again, prepare accordingly. Carry extra food and water and any medications you may need. My motto is “I’d rather be over-equipped and not need supplies that I have, than to need supplies I don’t have”.
Resources
The Milepost – Anyone traveling within (or residences of) Alaska need this guide book. It is a mile by mile resource of nearly every highway/major road within Alaska and neighboring Canadian territories. It lists attractions, logistical resources, lodging, and tour companies, along with much more. Highly recommended.
Birders Guide to Alaska, an ABA Birdfinding Guide – written by George C. West. More than just a birders guide. It covers history, the environment, wildlife, and the wild landscapes. Of particular note, the chapter on the Denali Highway is authored by Audie Bakewell, owner of the Denali Highway Cabins. He is an excellent resource and a highly trained naturalist.
Links
Bureau of Land Management – Denali Highway
BLM Denali Highway – Points of Interest
Denali Highway Cabins
Gracious House
Dave Taylor is a photographer, a photo guide, and writer. He is co-owner of Sixtyone North LLC, a photo adventure tour company specializing in Alaskan wilds and wildlife. Sixtyone North looks beyond logistical limitations to exciting new opportunities, and is the only full-time tour company dealing in Alaskan photo workshops. Dave also offers free logistical advice to fellow photographers visiting Alaska.
www.sixtyonenorth.com
www.sixtyonenorth.wordpress.com
www.dt-photography.com
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I just wanted to thank you very much for this informative article. I have already bookmarked your site, when I have more free time I am going to have to do some further reading. Well back to my dreaming of Panama or back to the books – I wonder which one is going to win out.
I just wanted to thank you very much for this enlightening article. I have already bookmarked your site, when I have more free time I am going to have to do some further research. Well back to my dreaming of Panama or back to the books – I wonder which one is going to win out.
Good Post. I searched the entire net for informations like u shared it on this post “Photo Travel Review Magazine » Guest Article – United States, Alaska, Denali Highway”. Thank you a lot, it aided me out.
Wow, stunning pictures! Really like your work. We have a new lodge on the Denali Highway, at milepost 68. 68 miles from Paxson, 67 miles from Cantwell, right on the slopes of the Clearwaters. Please stop by the next time your by, at Alpine Creek Lodge!
Claude & Jennifer Bondy
What an informative article. I just return from traveling the Denali Highway as a tour director for a group. Our guests loved this portion of their Alaska Vacation and it is truly the Road Less Traveled. We were on only bus on the highway heading east to Paxton, and we only counted 14 cars heading west. Had a great picnic lunch at one of the roadside picnic areas. No doubt we will be offering several tours in 2011 for those guests wanted to see the real Alaska and not the commercialized Alaska!
Thanks again. Scott from TBI Tours, Medina, OH