Wales – Coasts

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By Claire

The intention of this article is to suggest some walks, lakes and beaches that offer interest to the photographer. I’d be very happy to hear from others who have photographed in Wales, and thereby extend the area covered, so over time we build up a comprehensive guide and a google map of Wales for photographers. Click on the markers above to view images of the places discussed below. If you want to join in; email me via the contact page with links to images and text to add.

About this Location:

Wales is situated in the west of mainland Britain, with England inland to its east and the Irish Sea and Atlantic Ocean to the west. Wales has a population of about three million and is a bilingual country, with English the language spoken by the majority, and Welsh the native tongue.

Wales has a divergent and often spectacular landscape. It is compact in size but here can be found imposing mountains, meandering valleys, a dramatic coastline, wild moorland and lakes both big and small.  The coastal footpaths provide stunning walks and great access to beaches.

It has one of the world’s most moderate climates, with few extremes on the coast. However, Welsh weather is also one of the most changeable in the world and this can make for good photography. The sky is ever changing and it is as difficult to second guess as Wales’s chances of winning their next rugby match. It can be raining in the morning and sunny in the afternoon – the weather can be quite different only a few miles away. Some say that Wales doesn’t have a climate – only weather!

Personal highlights from many trips and location suggestions:

We start at Arthog. Barmouth, just over the estuary, is probably much better known but I prefer to stay on what some say is the darker side, in the shadow of Cadair Idris.

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The two Cregennen Lakes lie at 800 feet above sea level and are surrounded by moorland. In the larger lake is a tree covered island. The immediate area around the lakes is owned by the National Trust and there are waymarked footpaths. A lane goes up to the lakes from Arthog from the A493 (a bit hairy in places and a few gates to open but don’t give up as is really quite OK unless very icy)  and they can be reached by lanes from Dolgellau. A car park is situated near the larger lake. Cregennan is  remote and stunningly beautiful.  It provides a magnificent viewpoint of the summit of Cadair Idris and with sweeping views of the Mawddach Estuary, Barmouth, Cardigan Bay and northern Snowdonia. I’ve seen some fabulous sunrise shots taken here and the heather on the surrounding moorland is spectacular.

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From Arthog one can walk the Mawddach Trail, along the estuary. This runs along a disused railway trackbed from Dolgellau to Morfa Mawddach and continues over the toll bridge to Barmouth. The full route is nine miles, but it can be joined at several points as there are car parks at Morfa Mawddach, Arthog and Penmaenpool. It is an easy, flat trail and part of it is suitable for wheelchairs.

From the village, it is also just a short walk to Arthog Falls.

Moving on just 2 miles east of Dolgellau is one of the most spectacular riverside walks in Britain; The Torrent Walk. Autumn is recommended for tree colour and spring sees carpets of bluebells. It is reached by taking the Cross Foxes road out of Dolgellau and bearing left just past the Little Chef restaurant and Esso garage.

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Not far away from the above spot is the Precipice Walk. Enjoy fanastic views of the Mawddach Estuary and the principal mountain ranges of Snowdonia. There is a pretty little lake as well. It isn’t called the precipice walk for nothing and you do need a head for heights.
The starting point is the National Park car park – from Dolgellau, take the Bala road and fork left after a few hundred metres onto the minor road for Llanfachreth. After about 2 miles, you will come to the car park on your left at Saith Groesffordd. There is ample parking (and toilets).

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From Barmouth there are several paths that lead to the Panaramic Walk. From here you get stunning views down a beautiful estuary.

Moving inland, I stayed in a cottage at Trawsfyndd for a week. The cottage isn’t worth recommending and the location isn’t the best but one has easy access to the Coed y Brenin forest and Lyn Trawsfyndd. This lake is the location of a decommissioned Nuclear Power Station  – not exactly a great recommendation but the sunsets we got here were spectacular, the long footbridge adds interest and the power station menace.

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A bit of a jump south now to the area around New Quay. The first port of call is Aberaeron. A town that has lots of charm, a pretty harbour and colourful buildings but a beach that is to be avoided. But, is amazing what a sunset can do to a rusting pile and mud…..

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New Quay has the feel of a traditional British holiday resort. It’s position has meant it has kept its charm but in summer it gets crowded. Sunrise is a good time to visit, before the B&B’s have served breakfast. The harbour has a lot of interest before the crowds arrive and the streets get grid locked.

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From here onwards the coast takes on another feel. Out of season you can have beaches to yourself. Walk the coastal paths and slip down cliffs to bays that see no-one from one day to the next.

I discovered little inlets on an OS map but struggled to actually find the paths down as they are so little used (probably because they do take some effort to get back up again). Being on my own I was a little hesitant about having to climb back up the cliffs after dark but there are lots of opportunities here and after walking them a few times your confidence increases.  Just make sure you have a mobile signal and beware going around a headland and getting cut off by the tide.

Beaches that are accessible by car and worth exploring at sunset include Llangranog.  It has a distinctive large rock on the shore’s edge which according to legend was once a giant’s tooth. At low tide, you can walk past the rock to the hidden sandy cove of Cilborth – don’t worry about getting trapped as there is a steep set of steps that will be your escape route onto the cliffs above.

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Tresaith is set in a small sheltered sandy bay and is named after the River Saith which cascades as a waterfall over the cliffs to the beach and this will be a major attraction for photographers. As the sun begins to climb down you can often see a rainbow created by the spray from the fall.  There is also a café, a shop and a pub overlooking the beach so in summer it does get crowded and parking becomes a nightmare. Walk south along the coastal path to Aberporth and north to the small village of Penbryn.

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Continuing down the coast is Mwnt, a sheltered sandy cove, owned by the National Trust. This popular beach is off the beaten track but can still get busy in the height of summer. Walks along the cliffs are recommended, butterflies abound on the meadows near a little white church that you’ll see from the car park and this is a well photographed landmark.

We jump a bit now and come inland slightly to find Pentre Ifan and the most popular megalithic site in Wales, Pentre Ifan is a splendid burial chamber with a huge capstone delicately poised on three uprights.  Dating back to about 3500 BC it stands on the slopes of a ridge commanding extensive views over the Nevern Valley.  This was a shot taken just after sunrise.

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Heading back to the coast is Strumble Head and its Lighthouse. I recommend being here for the setting sun. Parking is easy and walks along the cliff give fine views.

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On the way to my next location I’d recommend a detour to St David’s and a boat trip to see the seals, when I was last here I watched a peregrine falcon and also saw porpoises.

Little Haven is a small seaside village with pubs and accommodation. It gets crowded but off season is worth waiting for a sunset  and there are walks from here to little coves that are less crowded.

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Finally we arrive at Marloes where you can embark to sail to Skomer. We will devote a full article on this location soon.

Lowlights:

Rain – Wales has a reputation for being wet and one can easily spend a week here and never see good light. It boasts the wettest inhabited place in the UK, eight of the wettest towns, and the wettest city.

When to Go:

Anytime, but it can get crowded in the summer. Early spring and autumn would be my favourite times of the year. Skomer is best-visited late spring / early summer for the flowers and bird life.

Access:

All the locations mentioned here are easily accessible by car and in some cases a little walking.

How to Get There:

If flying to the UK to visit Wales try Cardiff International Airport as a first choice. Bristol and Manchester airports are also within easy reach.

Where to Stay:

You can use the google map to search for accommodation.
Look here to find cottages.

I’ve stayed here and the location is great for the Ceredigion Coast.

This caravan is just a hundred yards from the Cardigan Bay coastal footpath.

It is possible to stay on Skomer Island or I’ve had a night here as this is close enough to Marloes to  catch the morning boat.

Or here to be close to Cregennen Lakes

Or for those on a budget try  the YHA .

Advice for travellers: Tips for Photographing Sunsets

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The west coast of Wales is renowned for its fantastic sunsets. I am always in a pre-planned spot as the sun is going down. Even if the light looks less than promising it is worth taking a stroll and hope that the conditions change – it is often the least promising days that turn into the most dramatic.
To get a perfect sunset picture you need the right conditions of dust and clouds. The red of the setting sun is the result of dust in the air. Clouds help too as they take on colours of their own. The most dramatic sunset pictures almost always include clouds plus a smooth expanse of water to reflect the colours.

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Timing is important. Sunsets constantly change over time so photograph the scene frequently,  if windy every minute. Clouds move, colours deepen and change.
Where possible, see if you can place an interesting object in the foreground of a sunset.
The colours and shapes of the clouds can sometimes be more interesting than the sun itself and are an important element in your composition.
Always remember to not just concentrate on the sunset itself. Do yourself a favour and turn around. As the sun sets it produces a beautiful golden light that can light up any scene and even turn what appeared dreary into something beautiful.

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Also don’t stop shooting once the sun has dropped below the horizon. The light levels may be low but the quality can improve and there is always the possibility of an amazing after glow when the clouds burst into colour again.

Equipment for this trip:

Wide angle for the sunsets and landscape shots. ND grads essential as is a tripod. Macro lens for details on beaches. Polariser.
Skomer will be covered in more detail in another article but here you’ll find a long zoom essential – I take my 100-400mm which gives enough reach for the puffin shots.

When The Light is good:

Rise early and stay out until past sunset. Plan your sunset shots in advance. When mornings are calm look for reflections in pools on beaches. In windy conditions seek out surf and crashing waves. Pour over OS maps and seek out smaller lakes for still mornings and hope for some morning mist. In autumn try and get out into the higher areas and hope for a temperature inversion or mist in the valleys.

When the Light is Bad:

Visit a castle or a waterfall. Look here for Welsh Waterfalls marked on OS 1:50,000 Maps.
Tourist attractions in Gwynedd ,   Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire
TheFelinwynt Rainforest Centre is great for when it rains. (4 miles from Aberporth on the Ferwig/Mwnt road)

Will I Go Again?

I’ve lots more still to see in the area covered here and of course each and every sunset is unique so no trip brings the same results.
Skomer is a location I like to visit every year. Regarding Wales in general I’d especially like to spend more time in Snowdonia, especially in winter.

UK travellers. PTR recommendations for insurance:

Travel insurance and camera insurance.

Recommended links:

General  link for Wales.

Some great photography here. (Dave Newbould’s Snowdonia and Wales Photographic Gallery)

Recommended Reading:

The Rough Guide to Wales

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2 Responses to Wales – Coasts

  1. Maria Hrafn Maria Hrafn says:

    Thanks for publishing about this. There’s a mass of important tech information on the internet. You’ve got a lot of that info here on your website. I’m impressed – I try to keep a couple blogs fairly up-to-date, but it’s a struggle sometimes. You’ve done a solid job with this one. How do you do it?

  2. marie marie says:

    Stunning pictures shows the true beauty of Wales

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